Chickpeas as we know them today (often referred to by their Spanish name garbanzos) are considered a sustainable, regenerative crop. The plant not only converts atmospheric nitrogen into a soluble form within soil as a natural fertilizer, but also sequesters carbon, is relatively drought tolerant and can help break disease and weed cycles when used as a cover crop.

Grown predominantly in India, chickpeas also are cultivated in Australia, Canada, Mexico, Myanmar, Pakistan, Turkey and the United States. Chickpeas reached a total global market share of 12.7 million tons in 2019, with forecasts projecting substantial growth through 2025 as demand continues to rise.

In the Kitchen: The plump, beige Kabuli chickpea predominates in markets throughout North America, Europe, the Middle East and Africa. On the Indian subcontinent, the smaller, darker-hued Desi variety prevails — whole beans are called Bengal gram, while golden split beans (with the dark hull removed) are called chana dal or yellow gram. Kabuli are sweet and almost nutty in flavor, while Desi are more earthy; both have a hearty consistency and are versatile ingredients.

Use dried whole chickpeas for falafel or a pot of Spanish stew, and split chana dal for South Indian dishes. Canned chickpeas are great for creamy hummus, crispy snacks and meatless meals. Use a mixer to transform the liquid from the can (aquafaba) into a dairy-free whipped topping, vegan meringue or egg substitute for baking. Chickpea (or gram or besan) flour makes the French flatbread socca and is a gluten-free option for dredges and thickeners.

Rinse dried chickpeas and discard broken or discolored beans, tiny stones or bits of dirt, if present. Soak in cool water for eight to 10 hours to soften beans and improve digestibility. Cook chickpeas using the stove or oven for about one and a half hours; a slow cooker on low for three to six hours; or a pressure cooker for about 20 minutes. One cup of dried chickpeas yields 2½ to 3 cups cooked chickpeas.

Adding salt to the soaking water, like brining, gives beans a creamier consistency and promotes more even cooking. For dried chickpeas, add a pinch of baking soda to the water prior to heating for faster cooking. Salt and acidic ingredients such as citrus juice, vinegar or tomato may increase cooking time and should be added at the end.

In the Clinic: A half-cup of cooked chickpeas has 135 calories, 2 grams of fat, roughly 6 grams of dietary fiber and more than 30 percent of the daily value for folate. A popular meat alternative, a half-cup serving provides 7 grams of protein and a little more than 10 percent of the daily value for zinc and iron. Phytic acid, or phytate — a compound naturally occurring in legumes — may decrease absorption of iron and zinc (as well as magnesium and calcium), but can be mitigated through soaking, sprouting or boiling.

Chickpeas and other legumes contain bioactive compounds including resistant starch, oligosaccharides and phytosterols. Studies suggest regular consumption of beans may decrease blood pressure, levels of low-density lipoprotein cholesterol and hemoglobin A1c; improve digestive health; and reduce risk of certain cancers.

A significant difference in the nutritional profile between canned and cooked dried chickpeas is the amount of sodium; some cans contain more than 300 milligrams per half cup. Choose cans labeled “low salt/sodium” or “no salt/sodium added” and rinse well to reduce sodium by up to 40 percent.

In Quantity: For foodservice, Kabuli chickpeas are sold dried in large-quantity bags and boxes or cooked in cans; dried desi chickpeas, split chana dal and chickpea flour or meal also are available. Prepared, refrigerated hummus can be purchased in bulk. Farmers markets and specialty shops in some regions of the U.S. may sell fresh chickpeas in bunches of podded stalks from mid to late spring, and it is possible to purchase cases of young green chickpeas, shelled and frozen.

Purchase from reputable sellers with good product turnover rate. Low-quality beans or those older than a year take much longer to cook and may have diminished or “off” flavors.

Store unopened dried chickpeas in the pantry for up to two years and opened dried chickpeas in a tightly sealed container or bag for up to one year. Cans can be stored in the pantry for two to five years from the date of purchase. Covered with cooking liquid or water in a sealed container, prepared chickpeas can be kept in the refrigerator for up to four days or in the freezer indefinitely (for best flavor and texture, use frozen beans within six months).

While dried beans cost a fraction of the price of canned, both are considerably more affordable than animal proteins and can be stored for much longer periods of time without great nutrient losses. This helps foodservice establishments provide a nutritious source of protein at a lower cost and with decreased waste.

To expand the use of these inexpensive, sustainable, versatile and nutritious beans, the food industry has created chickpea pasta, roasted and puffed snacks, sweet and savory spreads, tortillas, breads and pizza dough.

Try these recipes: Espresso Vanilla Bean Chickpea Blondies and Lemon Basil Chickpea Fritters

References

Beans, Lentils & Peas. Woodland Foods website. Accessed December 28, 2020.
Can Baking Soda Make Beans Cook Faster? Cook’s Illustrated website. Published May 22, 2019. Accessed December 28, 2020.
Chickpeas Market: Global Industry Trends, Share, Size, Growth, Opportunity and Forecast 2020-2025. IMARC website. Accessed December 21, 2020.
Chickpeas products search. Food Service Direct website. Accessed December 28, 2020.
Chickpeas: the wonder crop to boost the northern economy. The University of Sydney website. Published November 1, 2017. Accessed December 21, 2020.
Commodity Vegetables Individual Quick Frozen Green Chickpeas, 2.5 Pound — 6 per case. Food Service Direct website. Accessed December 28, 2020.
Cooking Beans in the Slow Cooker. The Bean Institute website. Accessed January 13, 2021.
Cooking with Dry Beans: Food Science Insights and Strategies from Dr. Guy Crosby. The Bean Institute website. Accessed January 13, 2021.
Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Pulses Contribute to Food Security. Published May 19, 2016. Accessed December 28, 2020.
Food Storage – How Long Can You Keep… Chickpeas/Garbanzo Beans, Dried, Commercially Bagged or Purchased in Bulk – Cooked at Home. Still Tasty website. Accessed January 13, 2021.
Foodservice Guide to Pulses. USA Pulses website. Published 2017. Accessed December 21, 2020.
Gelski J. The Chickpea: A Prince Among Pulses. Food Business News website. Published December 16, 2020. Accessed December 28, 2020.
Ha V, Sievenpiper JL, de Souza RJ, et al. Effect of dietary pulse intake on established therapeutic lipid targets for cardiovascular risk reduction: a systematic review and meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials. CMAJ. 2014;186(8):E252-E262.
How to Reduce Sodium. American Heart Association website. Reviewed May 23, 2018. Accessed December 28, 2020.
Jayalath V, de Souza R, Sievenpiper J, et al. Effect of dietary pulses on blood pressure: a systematic review and meta-analysis of controlled feeding trials. Am J Hypertens. 2014;27(1):56-64.
Jenkins D, Kendall C, Augustin L, et al. Effect of legumes as part of a low glycemic index diet on glycemic control and cardiovascular risk factors in type 2 diabetes mellitus: a randomized controlled trial. Arch Intern Med. 2012;172(21):1653-1660.
Jukanti A, Gaur P, Gowda C, Chibbar R. Nutritional quality and health benefits of chickpea (Cicer arietinum L.): a review. Br J Nutr. 2012;108 Suppl 1:S11-S26.
Kahraman A, Pandey A, Khan M, et al. Distinct Subgroups of Cicer echinospermum Are Associated with Hybrid Sterility and Breakdown in Interspecific Crosses with Cultivated Chickpea. Crop Sci. 2017; 27:3101-3111.
Schneider S. Fresh Chickpeas: Green, Good, and in Season. The Atlantic website. Published April 22, 2010. Accessed December 28, 2020.
Singh B, Singh JP, Shevkani K, Singh N, Kaur A. Bioactive constituents in pulses and their health benefits. J Food Sci Technol. 2017;54(4):858-870.
Stagnari F, Maggio A, Galieni A, Pisante M. Multiple benefits of legumes for agriculture sustainability: an overview. Chem Biol Technol Agric. 2017;4(1):2.
The Culinary Institute of America. USA Dry Pea & Lentil Council and American Pulse Association website. Published 2017. Accessed December 28, 2020.
The Global Economy of Pulses. Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations website. Published 2019. Accessed January 13, 2020.
The Nutrition Source: Are Anti-Nutrients Harmful? Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health website. Accessed December 21, 2020.
The Seeds. Svalbard Global Seed Vault website. Accessed December 21, 2020.
United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service, Food Data Central. Chickpeas (garbanzo beans, bengal gram), mature seeds, cooked, boiled, without salt. (SR LEGACY, 173757) Published April 1, 2019. Accessed December 21, 2020.
United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service, Food Data Central. Chickpeas (garbanzo beans, bengal gram), mature seeds, canned, solids and liquids. (SR LEGACY, 175206) Published April 1, 2019. Accessed December 28, 2020.

The color changes of this “golden” fish are the product of pigment-containing, light-reflecting cells called chromatophores that are found in many lower vertebrates. Triggered by external stimuli and hormone and neural interactions, the ability to rapidly flicker colors and patterns serves many functions, from communication and camouflage to warning of danger. It not only enables survival, but also signifies distress, injury or death, as a dying mahi-mahi fades to a faint greyish-yellow hue.

Living in deep waters of tropical and subtropical regions throughout the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans, adult mahi-mahi can grow to nearly 7 feet in length and weigh almost 90 pounds. They have a voracious appetite, consuming up to 20 percent of their body weight daily. Mahi-mahi can swim nearly 40 miles per hour and put up a powerful fight that makes this agile predator one of the most popular game fish for offshore anglers.

In the Kitchen:
Mahi-mahi is a thick, firm fish with a hearty, almost meaty texture and a mild to moderate flavor. Some people consider the bloodline to be visually unappealing and strongly flavored, so it often is trimmed away. If present, the skin can help fillets stay together during cooking, especially when grilling or sautéing. When cooked, mahi-mahi is opaque and flakes easily with a fork into large, tender pieces. The recommended minimum internal temperature is 145 degrees Fahrenheit.

A relatively lean fish, mahi-mahi is best suited to quicker cooking preparations such as sautéing, broiling, baking on a sheet tray at high heat or grilling. Blacken or tempura-fry it for tacos, or pan-sear fillets with onions, mushrooms and a garlicky lemon butter herb sauce. Oven-roast mahi-mahi en papillote (in parchment paper) with asparagus, cherry tomatoes and basil during the spring or summer, and with pear, sweet potato, leek and thyme in autumn or winter. To honor its warm-water origins, use bold ingredients from those regions: coconut milk or flakes, mango, lime and pineapple, sweet or hot peppers, ginger, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, or a cilantro or mint chutney.

Substitutes for mahi-mahi include halibut, grouper, flounder, snapper and amberjack. Though fishmongers typically remove the tiny pin bones in fish prior to sale, always err on the side of caution; run your hand over the fish to check for bones and use tweezers for easy removal.

In the Clinic:
Mahi-mahi is a lean fish high in protein. One 3-ounce cooked fillet has 93 calories and approximately 20 grams of protein. With less than 1 gram of total fat, each fillet contains 0.022 grams and 0.096 grams of eicosapentaenoic acid and docosahexaenoic acid, respectively.

A 3-ounce portion contains about 72 percent of the Daily Value for the antioxidant selenium, 80 milligrams of cholesterol and 96 milligrams of sodium. It also is an excellent source of vitamins B12, B6 and B3 (niacin), and provides smaller amounts of potassium and magnesium.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration and Environmental Protection Agency consider mahi-mahi a “good choice” based on mercury levels but recommend limiting consumption to one serving per week for young children, pregnant and breastfeeding women and those who might become pregnant. A serving is 4 ounces for adults; a child’s serving depends on age.

In Quantity:
Thanks to their warm habitats, mahi-mahi spawn intermittently year-round but have two “peak” seasons: from March to May and from September to November.

According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Fisheries, wild-caught mahi-mahi from the United States is a sustainable source of seafood. Because of their rapid growth and maturation, high productivity and relatively short life cycle, mahi-mahi can withstand heavy recreational and commercial fishing pressures.

When selecting fresh fillets, look for firm, light pink flesh with a mild aroma. There should be no fishy or ammonia-like smell. The bloodline, if present, is safe to eat and should be bright red, never brown or black. Preferred market weight of mahi-mahi is 15 pounds or more, and therefore it is rarely sold whole. Best prepared and eaten the day of purchase, fresh fish can be refrigerated up to two days on a plate or tray covered loosely with a paper towel or plastic wrap.

Mahi-mahi is commonly sold frozen in bags of 4- or 6-ounce vacuum-packed skinless fillets. Good-quality frozen fish should be rock-hard, appearing somewhat shiny with no evidence of freezer burn or defrosting, such as excess ice crystallization inside the package or fillets in contorted shapes. Well-wrapped frozen fillets can be stored in the freezer for up to eight months. Thaw in the refrigerator overnight, removed from packaging and covered loosely; to thaw fillets quickly, place in a sealed plastic bag and immerse in cold, potable water just before cooking.

For foodservice use, mahi-mahi is available in multi-pack cases with individually frozen and vacuum-packed skinless fillets ranging from 4 ounces to 10 ounces. Other frozen options include similarly sized skin-on fillets, larger portions to be cut onsite or high-end specialty cuts such as cheeks (small portions of mild, sweet and tender flesh from between the eye socket and gills).

Try mahi-mahi at home with these recipes: Savory Mahi-Mahi and Egg Breakfast Sandwich and Red Curry Poached Mahi-Mahi.

References

Advice About Eating Fish For Women Who Are or Might Become Pregnant, Breastfeeding Mothers, and Young Children. United States Environmental Protection Agency and U.S. Food & Drug Administration website. Accessed January 8, 2020.
Burgman J. Greatest Gamefish. Outdoor Life website. Published April 7, 2011. Accessed January 8, 2020.
Dolphinfish. Monterey Bay Aquarium Foundation website. Accessed January 8, 2020.
Dolphinfish Recommendations. Monterey Bay Aquarium Foundation website. Accessed January 8, 2020.
Mahi-Mahi. Harbor Seafood website. Accessed January 8, 2020.
Mahi-Mahi Flavor Profile. Chef’s Resources website. Accessed January 8, 2020.
Nutrition Facts Label and Allowable Nutrient Claims for a single 4 oz. Hawaii Seafood Council and NOAA website. Accessed January 8, 2020.

While domestication of Gallus gallus domesticus dates back at least 8,000 years, the modern bird we now know is a relative newcomer to American tables.

In the early 1920s, enterprising housewife Celia Steele of Delaware parlayed an incorrect shipment of 500 chicks (her family usually got 50) into an entirely new industry. She raised the chickens, then sold them locally as meat. Increasing her order each year, by 1926, Steele was raising 10,000 chickens to be sold.

This feathered windfall offered the possibility of, as the Republican Party promised voters in 1928, “a chicken in every pot.” Today, there is no denying the relative truthfulness of that phrase.

In the Kitchen: Chickens bred as meat are raised to specific ages and predetermined weight standards. Young birds weighing up to about 3½ pounds and about 2½ months of age are broilers or fryers. Roasters are younger than 8 months and weigh between 2½ and 5 pounds. Stewing chickens, also referred to as hens or fowl, are 10 to 18 months and weigh 3 to 6 pounds.

Chicken is sold whole, in quarters or as portions of breast, thigh, drumstick, leg (thigh plus drumstick) or wing; it typically is available as skin-on or skinless, bone-in or boneless. Shoppers also may choose from ground meat in varying percentages of leanness; deli-cut or prepackaged slices; and further processed options such as sausages, pot pies and stuffed breasts, or breaded nuggets, tenders and patties.

Young birds, the most tender and juicy, are best prepared with quick and dry cooking methods. Roasting befits slightly larger birds; older, tougher stewing chickens are suited to longer-cooking, moist-heat recipes. Dark meat is ideal for smoking, grilling, barbecuing, braising, roasting or in stews and soups. Lean chicken breast becomes dry and chewy if overcooked; marinating, stuffing with aromatics or cheeses, wrapping with bacon or prosciutto and cooking skin-on add flavor and retain moisture. Bone-in cuts are natural sources of collagen, often preferred for stock — although any portion will work.

Enjoyed worldwide, mild-flavored chicken pairs well with many flavors: from western Europe’s coq au vin and cacciatore to Eastern European paprikash; fiery Jamaican jerk rubs to smoky Mexican mole sauces; rich curries and umami-rich dishes of Asia; or the homiest of whole roasts for a weeknight meal or weekend gathering.

To minimize risk of foodborne illness, refrigerate or freeze poultry promptly after purchase. Always use safe thawing methods such as in the refrigerator, in cold water or using a microwave; designate specific utensils and cutting boards for raw poultry, cooked poultry and other ingredients; and cook all poultry to an internal temperature of 165° Fahrenheit. Although it once was common practice, never rinse raw chicken; research has shown this furthers the spread of bacteria.

In the Clinic: White meat chicken has long been an American diet staple. However, trend data suggests a greater acceptance of darker portions, likely driven by a gradual, continued move away from red meat, lower cost and a shift in demographics and culinary tastes featuring cuisines, such as Latin and Asian, that prefer these juicier,
more flavorful cuts.

A typical chicken is roughly half white and half dark meat. One average skinless thigh has approximately 200 calories and 10 grams of fat, while an equivalent amount of skinless breast has approximately 190 calories and 4 grams of fat. Both portions predominate in unsaturated fats: dark meat is about 62 percent unsaturated and white is 56 percent. Cooking skin-on keeps meat moist and flavorful; if desired, skin can be removed prior to serving or eating.

Chicken is an excellent source of protein, offering about 29 grams per thigh and 36 grams in the same size portion of breast (about 4 ounces cooked). Both are rich sources of vitamins B6 and niacin, zinc and selenium, and contain choline and riboflavin.

Chicken is considered a high-phosphorous food and often is injected with salt and other additives during processing. People with chronic kidney disease, hypertension and other cardiac conditions may need to limit the amount they eat.

In Quantity: Chicken is readily available year-round. Most U.S. sales to retail or foodservice operations are as further processed, portioned or whole birds and are fresh or frozen in multipack cases. Whole birds often are cheaper than portions but require time and labor to prepare. Dark meat generally is less expensive than white.

When selecting fresh whole chickens, look for birds with plump breasts and unblemished skin. For skinless portions, look for firm, opaque flesh and a pink color. Fresh chicken can be kept covered in the refrigerator up to two days. If purchased frozen, whole chickens and portions can be kept in the freezer for up to 12 and nine months, respectively.

Quality grades from the U.S. Department of Agriculture are listed on labels only if the processor requested and paid a fee for the service. Grade A is the highest quality, followed by B and C.

References

A Chicken for Every Pot political ad and rebuttal article in New York Times. Archives.gov website. Accessed February 7, 2019.
Bennett CE, Thomas R, Williams M, Zalasiewicz J, et al. The broiler chicken as a signal of a human reconfigured biosphere. R Soc Open Sci. Published December 12, 2018. Accessed February 7, 2019.
Broilers: Production and Value of Production by Year, United States, 2007-2017. USDA National Agricultural Statistics Service website. Published April 27, 2018. Accessed February 7, 2019.
Domestic Market Segments. National Chicken Council website. Accessed December 20, 2018.
Helm J. The Hidden Sodium in Chicken. Cooking Light Magazine. Published January 14, 2011. Accessed December 22, 2018.
Herbst R, Herbst ST. The Deluxe Food Lover’s Companion, 2nd Edition. Hauppauge, NY: Barron’s Educational Series, Inc.; 2015.
How Broilers are Marketed. National Chicken Council website. Accessed December 20, 2018.
Kawasaki M. Know Your Chicken: What USDA Poultry Labels Actually Mean. Serious Eats website. Accessed December 22, 2018.
Kirouac M. Go Dark. Food Fanatics website. Accessed December 22, 2018.
Meat and Poultry Labeling Terms. USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service website. Updated August 10, 2015. Accessed January 15, 2019.
National Nutrient Database for Standard Reference Release, April 2018. United States Department of Agriculture/National Agricultural Library website. Accessed December 16, 2018.
Neimark J. To Rinse Or Not To Rinse: How Washing Some Foods Can Help You Avoid Illness. NPR website. Published June 13, 2018. Accessed December 22, 2018.
Per Capita Consumption of Poultry and Livestock, 1965 to Forecast 2019, in Pounds. National Chicken Council website. Updated December 12, 2018. Accessed February 7, 2019.
Perry-Gal L, Erlich A, Gilboa A, Bar-Oz G. Earliest economic exploitation of chicken outside East Asia: Evidence from the Hellenistic Southern Levant [published online ahead of print July 20, 2015]. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA. 2018. pnas.org/content/112/32/9849. Accessed February 7, 2019.
The Big Thaw — Safe Defrosting Methods for Consumers. USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service website. Updated June 15, 2013. Accessed December 22, 2018.
U.S. Chicken Industry History. National Chicken Council website. Accessed December 20, 2018.

Temperatures rise and fall with general predictability as the seasons change, but a warm beverage provides comfort any day of the year. No matter the weather, hot water for a mug of cocoa, tea for two, or a pot of French press coffee is only moments away with the KRUPS Cool Touch Electric Kettle.

Utilizing 1,500 watts of power, this quiet electric kettle needs only six minutes to heat the total capacity of 1.5 liters (less time for smaller amounts). The smart appliance automatically shuts off within 30 seconds of reaching a full boil, while its double layer of insulation keeps both the external surface cool to the touch and the water warm for up to 30 minutes — safety and efficiency features that those with children or who frequently multitask in the kitchen will appreciate.

Made of sleek black plastic on the outside and a full lining of stainless steel on the inside, the lightweight materials belie its sturdiness and quality, with a design that neither looks nor feels cheap. The kettle itself is cordless for ease of pouring, sitting on a corded rotational power base that allows for replacement at any angle. There is no gauge or window to check water level when filling, but the maximum capacity is clearly marked inside the carafe.

In addition to using less energy than a traditional stovetop kettle, the KRUPS Cool Touch gives off virtually no heat — which is particularly advantageous in my kitchen, as I enjoy cocoa mid-afternoon practically every day of the year. I am very happy with the kettle for preparing hot beverages, as well as for getting a jump on boiling water to cook dried beans and more quickly prepare breakfast porridges.

As the company’s saying goes, “for Krups, every detail counts,” and the Cool Touch Electric Kettle is no exception. Although heating water in a stovetop pot isn’t difficult or much more time-consuming, this safety-focused electric tool is a welcome daily convenience that merits its own spot on our kitchen counter.

The rich base of homemade chicken bone stock (or quality store-bought chicken or veg) is infused both with the kernels and their stripped cobs (kind of a corn stock hack, if you will). After discarding the cobs, everything is pureed until creamy — made even more so from a cup of white beans. Then comes the third hit of summery flavor in the form of reserved kernels added just before serving to retain that fresh, juicy bite.

Experiment with the varieties of summer sweet corn you like best — yellow, bi-color, white. The chowder keeps nicely in the refrigerator as leftovers or as a make-ahead, and presumably would do well in the freezer for enjoyment later as well. But if you just can’t find good corn now, don’t be afraid to try the frozen cob portions in the off-season.

Bright garlic scape, lemon and parsley gremolata and a pair of crispy bacon dippers are the perfect finish here. For the recipe within the recipe, my gremolata is made of only three ingredients — garlic scapes, parsley and lemon zest — and is a cinch to mix together. Not only that, it holds up a few days in the refrigerator to be used alongside chowder leftovers, or as a zingy addition to to other soups and stews, egg dishes, pizzas, salads, sandwiches, etc. If you can’t find scapes, try fresh chives or slender scallions instead.

What’s In it For Me?

One standard-sized ear of sweet corn provides roughly 10 percent of your daily needs for niacin (vitamin B3), phosphorous and vitamin B6, with just under 10 percent of your thiamin (B1), magnesium, immune-boosting zinc and brain-healthy choline. While corn has a fair amount of natural sugars and starches, it is also surprisingly rich in antioxidant phytochemicals that are broken down more slowly than others, translating into extended benefits for the body. Fun fact: Sweet corn kernels — each cob containing about 800 on average — are actually classified as whole grains; not veg. Who knew?!

For only 125 calories and less than 0.5 g fat, a ¹⁄₂-cup serving of white beans provides nearly 9 g protein, more than 20 percent of your daily needs for fiber, and nearly 20 percent of your daily iron and the B vitamin folate. White beans are also good sources of potassium, magnesium, copper and zinc, with about 8 percent of your calcium DV as well.

Sulfur from onion, scapes and garlic promotes synthesis of the anti-inflammatory antioxidant glutathione. Thyme is a source of a phytonutrient called thymol, being studied for anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties. Limonene, a phytochemical found in high concentrations in citrus fruit, may have anti-carcinogenic properties, and additional studies show that regular moderate intake of soluble pectin fiber — found predominantly in citrus peels — may help lower cholesterol and triglyceride levels, and decrease risk of atherosclerosis, heart disease and diabetes.

Homemade stock is low in calories, fat and sodium, is another good source of the B vitamin niacin, and offers small amounts of phosphorous, potassium and copper. Stock is naturally hydrating and can help replenish depleted stores of electrolytes. Furthermore, research suggests it may serve as a mild anti-inflammatory.

One ounce of bacon (the weight of an average slice) contains about 120 calories and 4 g saturated fat (10 g total fat), plus 8 g protein. I usually recommend lower-sodium versions, which typically cut sodium by about 25 percent.

Even with that full slice of bacon, which you can certainly omit, the chowder is fairly healthful, packed with beneficial nutrients, and is light yet comfortingly rich.  Beyond delicious on its own, with lots of satisfying flavors and textures, you could add a dollop of plain yogurt, or stir in some cooked quinoa, millet or brown rice to make it heartier. The slices of toasty baguette we served on the side were a treat.

From the looks of the fields, these sweet summer staples will hang on a bit longer at local farm stands. A handful of coins goes far in corn, so you (and I) might as well load up and put the stove on. I guarantee you’ll welcome a bowl or two of my fresh-from-the-cob chowder! Enjoy.

Farm Stand Corn Chowder with Garlic Scape Gremolata & Crispy Bacon

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

• 6 ears fresh corn, shucked and cleaned
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 4 stalks celery, chopped
• ¹⁄₂ large vidalia or other sweet yellow onion, chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon white wine, optional
• 2 bay leaves (dried or fresh)
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 cup cooked white beans — if using canned, rinse and drain well
• 3 cups homemade or low-sodium veg (or chicken) stock
• 3 cups water
• 4 to 6 slices good-quality bacon
• 4 to 8 tablespoons (¹⁄₄ to ¹⁄₂ cup) Garlic Scape Gremolata (see Notes at bottom)

Method

1. Use a sharp knife to slice down length of the cobs to remove kernels. If you have a bundt or angel food tube pan, a helpful trick is to stand the stem end of the cob atop center hole of the pan. This holds the cob in place as you slice down and collects kernels in the bottom, as opposed to shooting all over your counter and floor. Once all of the kernels are removed, reserve 1 cup in a separate bowl, as well as stripped cobs; set both aside.
2. Heat olive oil over medium heat in a large Dutch oven or large saucepan with lid. When warm, add celery, onion and garlic, and season with a pinch of salt. Reduce heat slightly to medium-low and cook, stirring, just until the veg softens, about 10 minutes.
3. Turn up the heat, pour in wine if using, and deglaze — scraping bottom of pan with a wooden spoon to pick up any bits. Otherwise, simply add in herbs, beans, reserved cobs, stock and water. Bring liquid to a boil and season with another pinch of salt. Once boiling, reduce heat, partially cover pot and simmer for 20 minutes.
4. Remove and discard corn cobs, bay leaf and the sprigs of thyme. (If you want to make the chowder ahead of time, stop at this point, let it cool and then transfer it to the refrigerator.) Working in batches if necessary, carefully transfer soup to a large high-powered blender (or use an immersion/hand/stick blender) and puree until smooth, adding additional stock or water if too thick. Return chowder to the saucepan and add reserved 1 cup of corn kernels; stir once and keep at a gentle simmer over low heat for another 5 to 8 minutes while you prepare the bacon.
5. Place bacon strips in a heavy skillet and cook over medium-low heat, flipping occasionally, until as crisp as you like. Carefully transfer cooked bacon onto a couple pieces of paper towel and blot dry with another paper towel to remove excess grease. Snap each strip in half or chop into roughly ¹⁄₂-inch pieces.
6. When ready to serve, taste and season as needed with more salt and pepper. Divide chowder among 4 or 6 bowls, and top each with 1 to 2 tablespoons of prepared gremolata. Stick two bacon halves (or chop and scatter over top) into each bowl, and serve immediately while hot.
7. Leftover chowder keeps tightly sealed in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Before eating, bring it to a boil and then simmer gently for about 10 minutes. If the chowder has thickened too much during the chill, add a splash of water after heating.

Notes: 

How to Make Garlic Scape Gremolata

Makes about ¹⁄₂ cup

In a small bowl, add ¹⁄₃ cup minced fresh parsley and 4 finely minced garlic scapes (ends trimmed first) and zest of 1 large lemon. Stir a few times to combine. Store leftovers in a tightly sealing jar or bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

Owing to a base of ground almond meal and olive oil, these are dense and compact — like a shortcake-scone hybrid. Generous lemon, a touch of honey, plus both vanilla and almond extracts, the result is unmistakably almond, with hints of citrus and sweet floral.

Each bite is so tender it would almost melt in your mouth, if not for the pleasant crunch from slivered almonds flecked throughout. Am I winning you over?

Like most scones, the calorie and fat levels are up there. (Alas, probably not an everyday breakfast, snack or dessert.) Thanks to the recipe modifications, however, where these differ is a much higher nutrient-density — more nutritional bang for your calorie buck, so to speak: Each scone comes in at 7 g protein and 4 g fiber with only 6 g sugar, and provide predominantly heart-healthy poly- and mono-unsaturated fats.

If working around allergy restrictions or dietary preferences, the gluten-free and dairy-free boxes are checked.

What’s In Them for Me?

Almond meal/flour is naturally low in carbohydrates, provides plant sterols and fiber, and is a small source of protein, vitamin E, plus plant-based non-heme iron, zinc and copper. In addition to nutritional benefits, it helps keep the scones tender and moist, and adds a naturally sweet almond flavor. (Learn more about powdery arrowroot starch.)

One whole egg contains more than 6 g of complete protein. Many of the egg’s beneficial fat-soluble nutrients are found in the yolk, including choline, vitamins A, D, E and K, and lutein and zeaxanthin — two carotenoids that play a critical role in maintaining eye health.

Lemons are high in antioxidant vitamin C, potassium and limonene, a type of phytochemical found in high concentrations in citrus fruit. Limonene is currently being studied for anti-carcinogenic properties, specifically the potential to prevent growth and spread of human colon and breast cancer cells. Additionally, studies show that regular moderate intake of soluble pectin fiber — found predominantly in citrus peels — may help lower cholesterol and triglyceride levels, and decrease risk of atherosclerosis, heart disease and diabetes.

Olive oil is a source of healthy fats, predominantly mono-unsaturated fats, that help your body absorb all of the beneficial nutrients mentioned above and, with its vitamin E, may help lower total and LDL cholesterol levels, and improve control of blood sugar and insulin levels.

Even straying heavily from the traditional, my triple almond lemon scones will charm you all the same, perhaps more. 

Triple Almond Lemon Scones

Makes 8 scones

Ingredients

• 2 cups packed almond flour or almond meal (see HGN Notes)
• ¹⁄₃ cup arrowroot powder (also called arrowroot starch)
• 2 tsp baking powder
• ¹⁄₂ tsp kosher salt
• 2 large eggs, room temperature
• ¹⁄₄ cup fresh squeezed lemon juice
• 1 to 2 Tbsp fresh lemon zest, depending on taste preference
• 2 Tbsp good-quality honey (or pure maple syrup)
• ¹⁄₂ tsp pure almond extract
• ¹⁄₄ tsp pure vanilla extract
• 2 Tbsp mild olive oil (or the same amount of melted unsalted butter, cooled)
• ¹⁄₄ cup slivered almonds (or same amount of raw almonds, toasted + coarsely chopped)

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 350° F, with a rack in the middle position. Line a baking tray with a baking mat or parchment paper; set aside.
2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the almond flour (or meal), arrowroot powder, baking powder and salt, and whisk to combine.
3. In a smaller bowl, whisk together the eggs, lemon juice and zest, honey, plus the almond and vanilla extracts. Add the olive oil, and whisk again to thoroughly combine. Pour the wet mixture into the dry and, with a wooden spoon or rubber scraper, mix until just incorporated. Add the chopped almonds, and gently work in with your hands or the spoon/scraper to evenly distribute.
4. Dump the dough onto a clean work surface and pat it into a 7- to 8-inch circle about 1-cm thick. Use a sharp knife to cut the circle into 8 wedges and transfer to the prepared tray, leaving about 1-inch of space between each — they won’t spread much. (See HGN Notes for instructions to make ahead and freeze.)
5. Place the tray into the preheated oven and bake, rotating halfway through, until the tops and edges are lightly golden, about 20 to 25 minutes. Cool on the tray for at least 5 minutes before serving or storing.
6. Scones keep in an airtight container at room temperature for 1 week, or up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. Scones also freeze well and will keep there, well-wrapped, for up to 3 months.

• Use any other nut or seed meal/flour you have on hand — from making milks or from the store — in place of the almond.
• Try lime, orange or grapefruit zest and/or juice.
• Make it vegan with flaxseed or chia seed eggs. (Combine 1 Tbsp flax OR chia with 3 Tbsp water in a small bowl. Set aside 10 minutes to allow the mixture to gel.)
• Omit the slivered/chopped almonds entirely, or replace with chopped apple, pear or persimmon (try roughly 1-cm chunks, about ¹⁄₃ to ¹⁄₂ cup total). You could also try an equal amount of unsweetened dried fruit of your choosing — perhaps apricots or cherries?
• Fold in ¹⁄₄ to ¹⁄₂ cup grated unsweetened coconut.
• Sprinkle the top of the dough with turbinado, coconut, maple or cinnamon sugar before baking to add a shimmery sweet crunch.
• Substitute ¹⁄₄ cup chopped dark chocolate in place of the apple chunks.
• Calories and total amount of fat is really on your radar to limit? Give yourself a break here by cutting the the dough round into more triangles.

Radishes vary in shape and size and are available in dozens of colorful varieties, each worthy of consideration.

In the Kitchen

Radishes range from about a half-inch in diameter for the smallest red globe to about 18 inches long and 3 inches wide for the large daikon. Despite these differences, younger and smaller size typically equates to more sweetness and tender flesh; older and larger size can indicate the interior flesh is dried out or woody. (One half-pound is about 10 to 14 radishes and should yield approximately 1⅔ cups sliced.)

Beyond a good wash, most radishes are ready to eat, no peeling required. Pair radishes with citrus fruits, especially orange and lemon; fresh herbs such as chives and parsley; umami-rich miso paste and vinegars; as well as simple salt, butter (especially browned), yogurt or cream.

The red globe and their shapelier French breakfast radish cousins add pops of color to salads, sandwiches and crudité platters. The pale green-skinned, fuchsia-fleshed watermelon radish, an heirloom Chinese daikon, generally is kept raw as cooking dulls its color and already mild flavor. The color and flavor of dark-skinned Spanish black radishes are not affected by cooking and can be enjoyed both raw and cooked with or without skin. White icicle and daikon radishes are milder and often are featured in Asian and Latin cuisines raw as a garnish or pickled.

Cooking radishes increases their versatility, enhances their innate sweetness and tames their spicy flavor. In addition, cooking modifies the texture, from a crisp bite to softness similar to cooked turnip or carrot. Sauté or roast small red radishes whole (or cut into wedges if they are large) and toss with pasta, rice or whole grains, or use in stir-fries, grilled mixed vegetables, egg scrambles or braises.

With a peppery-hot taste similar to mustard greens or watercress, leafy green radish tops are safe to eat. Sautéing or steaming often are the preferred methods of preparation. Greens from radishes harvested earlier in the growing season are milder and tenderer, and often are preferred raw in salads, pesto or as a garnish.

In the Clinic

On average, a 1-cup serving of raw radishes has about 4 grams of carbohydrate and nearly 1 gram of protein in fewer than 20 calories. This serving is an excellent source of vitamin C. A cup of raw radishes also delivers 8 percent of the Daily Value of potassium and 7 percent of the Daily Value of folate. Additionally, radishes are considered low-FODMAP and are among the most hydrating vegetables with a water content of more than 95 percent.

Brightly colored varietals — including the common red globe, bi-colored French breakfast, watermelon and purple daikon, as well as Spanish black radishes — contain pigments with antioxidant properties. Rich hues indicate the presence of anthocyanins, which research suggests may help decrease inflammation and cancerous tumor growth, possibly offering protection from heart diseases and certain cancers.

Like other cruciferous vegetables in the Brassica family, radishes are rich in a unique group of phytochemicals called glucosinolates. When radishes and other raw cruciferous vegetables are broken down by chopping or chewing, sulfurous isothiocyanate compounds with potential anti-carcinogenic properties are produced. These isothiocyanates are responsible for some of the spiciness in radishes — the greater the isothiocyanate concentration, the hotter the taste.

In Quantity

Red radishes are available in grocery store produce departments year-round, but buying in-season (usually April through June) ensures the best flavor and quality. French breakfast, watermelon, purple daikon, icicle and Spanish black radishes often are available at specialty grocers or farmers markets, and daikon radishes are common at Asian markets. Look for radishes that are firm, uncracked and vibrantly colored; avoid those that look faded, wrinkled or cracked, or feel soft. If the leaves are attached, they should be bright green and unblemished — never wilted.

Radishes keep well for about a week in the refrigerator crisper drawer, loosely wrapped in plastic. To retain freshness, wash radishes just prior to use and, if purchased as a bunch, trim the greens to within an inch of the stem before refrigerating. To reinvigorate soft radishes and add back some of their natural crispness, soak in ice water 30 to 60 minutes before using.

A foodservice staple — commonly used in salads and as garnishes or crudités — radishes are almost exclusively sold fresh, since freezing compromises flavor and texture. In the U.S., raw radishes are available in larger quantities as bunches with greens or whole and trimmed in 5- to 40-pound cases. Depending on market variability, additional options may include raw straight or crinkle-cut coins or matchsticks.

Though a dream it most likely shall remain, I was once blessed with gifts from the Old Town souk (market) in Dubai. Special edible treats to add to my global pantry, still enjoyed with great fondness, as we very much like to get away from the ordinary in our kitchen. Most unforgettable, a small bag, clearly hand-packed with care, layer upon layer upon layer of kaleidoscope powders. As deliciously aromatic as it was beautiful.

Ras el Hanout. A fragrant and spicy blend of up to 30 or more dried spices, roots, peppers and leaves, some traditional versions up the ante with specialty ingredients like saffron and rose petals. This lends to a price tag of about 150 dirhams per kilogram, or roughly $20 per pound — fortunately, its well-balanced heat and complexity ensure that a little bit goes a long way in cooking!

Traditionally used throughout Morocco and northern Africa for barbecued lamb and meat or vegetable tagines, we like to incorporate the enticing flavors and aromas of Ras el Hanout into rubs and marinades for poultry and fish, as well as grain dishes, curries, stews and mixed into mince for brochettes served with flatbread and cucumber yogurt sauce to tame the fire.

Purchase a jar at Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and some specialty food markets, or online from reputable purveyors like The Spice House … or go on a culinary adventure in your own kitchen. Not as long a list as some recipes, mine combines a still-impressive 17 aromatics.

What’s in It for Me?

Though quantities used in the kitchen are typically small, spices are rich in vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals, and pack a powerful antioxidant punch. In addition to beneficial nutrients, spices (and herbs) impart color, aroma and intense flavor to meals, and allow cooks to enhance taste with less fat and salt.

Tiny aniseeds (or anise seeds) are the seeds of the anise (fennel) plant, offering a small amount of fiber and are a surprising source of iron, providing roughly 10 percent of your recommended daily intake in only 1 Tbsp. In addition to a warm black licorice-like fragrance and flavor, aniseeeds are regarded in many cultures as a galactogogue (thanks to phytoestrogens that stimulate lactation), an aphrodisiac and a medicinal cure-all.

Of no relation to fennel, fenugreek is an annual herb (trigonella foenum graecum) with edible leaves and seeds — the latter of which impart a nutty flavor and have a faint maple-y aroma. The golden, blocky little fenugreek seeds provide more than 10 percent of your daily fiber needs per 1 Tbsp, plus about 1/5 that of your iron. Aniseeds are used by nursing mothers around the world as a galactogogue (typically in the form of a warm brewed tea), and are considered curative for a variety of issues ranging from menopause and depression to digestive and respiratory distress.

Made by finely milling a blend of dried (and often smoked) mild and spicy peppers, paprika adds a bright red color and slight sweetness (or smokiness) to dishes, and is a great flavoring substitute for salt. Paprika is a good source of vitamins B6 and E, and an excellent source of antioxidant vitamin A, providing nearly 75 percent of your DV per 1 Tbsp.

Chile powder (not to be confused with the blend of spices and occasionally preservatives called ‘chili powder’) — in the case of this recipe, ancho chile powder — provides a deeply rich, almost fruity-floral flavor without too much additional heat. This powder of dried and ground ancho chiles is a good source of fiber, iron, manganese and potassium, and is rich in some of the B vitamins plus vitamin A.

In addition to the misleading name, many believe that allspice is a blend rather than a unique spice because of the pungent, peppery taste and aroma reminiscent of a combination of cinnamon, ginger, clove and nutmeg. Technically the dried unripe berry of an evergreen tree native to the tropics, researchers found that allspice (also called Jamaica pepper) contains phytochemicals with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-tumor properties.

Meaning “head of the shop” in Arabic, Ras el Hanout is thought of as a decadent and kingly ingredient — every time we use it, I can see, taste and smell why.  This prized blend is extremely versatile, and when hand-mixed at home, can be made as spicy or tame and as pungent or mild as you wish.

Take a trip (or send a loved one vicariously) to the exotic souks of northern Africa, without leaving the comforts of home!

Ras el Hanout

Makes 1/2 cup

Ingredients

• 2 dried bay leaves
• 2 tsp whole black peppercorns (or 3 tsp ground black pepper)
• 1 Tbsp ground ginger
• 1 Tbsp ground coriander
• 2 tsp ground chile powder (not chilli powder; I used ancho chile for a hint of smokiness)
• 2 tsp ground paprika, sweet, hot, or smoked (I used Hungarian sweet)
• 2 tsp ground cumin
• 2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 2 tsp ground allspice
• 2 tsp ground turmeric
• 1¹⁄₂ tsp ground or freshly grated nutmeg
• 1¹⁄₂ tsp ground cardamom
• ³⁄₄ tsp ground fennel seed
• ³⁄₄ tsp ground aniseed (also called anise seed)
• ¹⁄₂ tsp ground fenugreek
• ¹⁄₂ tsp ground cloves
• ¹⁄₄ to ¹⁄₂ tsp ground cayenne pepper, depending on your heat preference

Method

1. In a spice mill or mortar and pestle, grind together the bay leaves and black peppercorns until fine and powdery. Transfer to a bowl (strained through a fine mesh sieve, if you like), and add the remaining ingredients; stir until thoroughly mixed.
2. Funnel the Ras el Hanout into a tightly sealing jar or container. Store in an airtight container in a cool cupboard or pantry up to 2 months for maximum freshness.

Notes

• There is no one standard recipe for Ras el Hanout, so you can feel free to slightly adjust amounts to your liking, make comparable substitutions, or omit ingredients you do not have on hand.
• Want more heat? Add an extra 1 tsp black peppercorns or more a bit more cayenne.
  and Not as much a fan of warming spices as you are the black licorice-like flavors? Swap amounts of fennel and aniseed with those of ginger and cinnamon, e.g., use ³⁄₄ tsp each of cinnamon and ginger and 1 Tbsp ground fennel and 2 tsp ground aniseed.
• Add some of the other classic elements not featured in this blend, like 1 tsp culinary lavender (ground), 1 Tbsp culinary dried rose petals (ground), 1¹⁄₂ tsp ground mace, or 1¹⁄₂ tsp ground orris root.

Nutrition Info

Serving Size: 1 tsp Calories: 10 Fat: 0 Saturated fat: 0 Unsaturated fat: 0 Trans fat: 0 Carbohydrates: 1 Sugar: 0 Sodium: 0 Fiber: 1 Protein: 0 Cholesterol: 0

This salad is a nice departure from the usual mixture of greens, is a welcome change of pace from rich, heavy and often meaty or starchy cold-weather foods that can be staples on the winter table. It as lovely on its own as it is alongside a lean protein or warm whole grains, and is perfect for exploring the many varieties of citrus and beets available during these colder months — try those that you like best, are in season and on sale, or simply catch your eye at the market.

Cheery and nutritious, I’d be happy enjoying this showstopper of a salad all year round!

Yellow Beet, Blood Orange, Fennel and Chèvre Salad

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 2 large or 4 small golden beets, washed well, greens removed if still attached
• 2 small to medium fennel bulbs
• 2 tablespoons fennel fronds, divided: 1 tablespoon minced and 1 tablespoon whole
• 3 small blood oranges, divided: 2 for the salad and 1 for juicing (to yield about ¼ cup)
• 2 handfuls of baby greens — collards, kale, arugula or spinach — washed and dried well, thinly sliced into ribbons (optional)
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon finely minced shallot
• 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon pure honey
• 4 ounces chèvre

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Individually wrap beets in foil and place on a rimmed baking tray or glass oven-safe dish. Roast until tender when pierced with a knife, about 45 minutes for small beets and up to 1 hour or more for larger beets. If you have beets of differing sizes, remove each when done.
2. When cool enough to comfortably handle, gently rub off beet skins and slice about ⅛-inch thick.
3. Cut off the stem and frond portions of fennel. Reserve fronds and either discard stems or save to compost or make stock. Discard the outer layer of the bulbs if tough or beat-up looking. Halve each bulb, then cut out and discard the core. Place each half on a flat side, and slice about ⅛-inch thick. Set aside.
4. Peel two blood oranges and cut each crosswise into ¼-inch slices.
5. Juice the remaining blood orange. In a small bowl or lidded jar, whisk or shake together blood orange juice and olive oil. Add minced fennel fronds, shallot, vinegar and honey and whisk/shake again. Taste and season as needed with salt and pepper. Set the vinaigrette aside at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes.
6. On a large serving platter or 4 individual plates, layer beet, fennel and orange slices. Lightly drizzle the vinaigrette. Keep in mind that the blood oranges and blood orange vinaigrette will quickly turn everything pink, so assemble salad just before serving for optimal presentation.
7. If using baby greens, give them a quick toss in a small bowl with a spoonful of the vinaigrette, then pile over the salad. Top with nubs of chèvre and finish with a light pinch of salt and black pepper. Garnish with whole fennel fronds. Serve immediately.

The recipe is as decadent and rich as you would imagine a torte primarily composed of butter, eggs and dark chocolate to be. This sweet treat is a plate-lickingly indulgent way to celebrate any special occasion. 

Flourless Dark Chocolate Stout Torte

Serves 12

Ingredients

• 8 ounces dark chocolate, at least 60 to 70 percent cacao, chopped finely with a serrated knife (or use dark chocolate chips)
• ½ cup + 2 tablespoons butter, left at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, plus extra butter for greasing baking pan
• 5 large eggs, at room temperature
• ½ cup stout, (try a chocolate stout, or an imperial stout for a deeper, boozier kick, or porter for a smokier flavor)
• ½ cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
• ¼ teaspoon salt

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F with a rack in middle position. Grease an 8-inch springform or round cake pan with butter. Line the base with a piece of parchment and butter that as well.
2. Place chopped chocolate or chocolate chips and butter in medium metal or heat-proof glass bowl. Set bowl over saucepan of barely simmering water and stir until chocolate and butter are melted and smooth. Remove and set aside to cool briefly.
3. Whip together eggs, sugar and maple syrup using an electric stand or hand mixer until light and fluffy, about 4 to 5 minutes. With rubber spatula, stir stout into chocolate-butter mixture, then fold in salt and the egg mixture. Batter should be smooth and dark.
4. Pour batter into prepared tin and place it in oven. Set timer for 40 minutes and check every two minutes thereafter for doneness. (At 40 minutes, the center is usually still quite jiggly.) In total, the torte should bake approximately 45 minutes, or until the center is set enough that it does not jiggle when the pan moves. The top will have formed a thin crust with a nice sheen and slight crackly appearance. (Note: A cake tester will not come out clean, so rely on the visual indicators for doneness.) Remove the torte from the oven and let it rest in the tin on a rack for 10 minutes.​”
5. When cool enough to handle, carefully remove from tin and cool completely on rack. Torte will deflate slightly.
6. Slice with a very sharp knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry or sharp serrated bread knife. Serve in wedges at room temperature or chilled (we prefer well-chilled).

I like to think my knife skills are pretty sharp. While the technique might need some work, a counter full of formidable ingredients provided the perfect opportunity to test myself, as well as the breadth of my new cutting-edge companion’s capabilities.

More than a century of experience makes Shun Cutlery practically synonymous with exceptional craftsmanship. The new Hikari features an impressively thin 8-inch blade forged from two types of steel, with a laser-cut “hornet’s nest” pattern, which to you and me means a sharper edge and longer-lasting performance. The birch Pakkawood® handle — wrapped around a full tang with an embossed end cap to provide balance — is lightweight and a lovely shade of blonde, playing to hikari’s literal Japanese translation: light.

Fridays at my house mean homemade pizza, and on a drizzly late winter evening, also a new dessert. On the menu: a roasted paprika-cinnamon butternut squash, leek and fresh sage pizza with Manchego and pomegranate arils, and for dessert, triple almond scones with fresh ginger.

The blade being a good touch lighter than most chef’s knives, I was dubious. My preference tends toward those with some heft, especially when tackling bulkier ingredients like winter squash. But from start to finish, the Shun Hikari Chef’s Knife proved its versatility was more than adequate for both heavy-duty and precision cutting tasks. The blade glided through my massive butternut with minimal effort, made quick work of finely chopping toasted almonds, and deftly turned out minced garlic, julienned ginger, thinly sliced leek and a chiffonade of sage.

There’s good balance between the handle and the blade, which meant better control, and the slim handle was comfortable and easy to grip for a long bout of prep. It worked equally as well on a wood butcher block as it did on a thick plastic cutting board. The long size, however, does make a larger cutting surface beneficial. The single sticking point was literally that — slight adherence of the naturally sticky fresh garlic to the blade. Other than that, the intricately beautiful pattern keeps it clean.

One quick note about care to ensure a long knife lifespan: Always hand-wash, thoroughly dry and immediately put away into a block or on a magnetic strip. This is particularly crucial for knives high in carbon steel, which are more prone to rust. If you’re washing the knife between tasks, remember to dry the handle well — it can be a tad slick in the hand when wet.

Priced to reflect their history and quality, Shun knives would otherwise be window-shopping-only items for me. If you have the means or want to splurge, this is a masterful work of art — as beautiful as it is functional. Every cook, at any skill level, needs a good knife. The Hikari is about as good as you can get, and it’s my new go-to for quick weeknight meals, elaborate feasts and everything between. 

Being so small and low on the food chain, scallops generally are low in contaminants, toxins and heavy metals, such as mercury.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch program considers farmed scallops a Best Choice and wild sea scallops a Good Alternative. The exception is diver-caught scallops from Peru, which consumers are advised to avoid.

In the Kitchen

The most common types of scallops include large, meaty sea scallops (about 1 to 11⁄2 inches in diameter), small and sweet bay scallops (about 1⁄2 inch) and hand-collected diver scallops (size varies, but these tend to be on the larger side). “Dry-packed” scallops often are preferred over “wet-packed” — the latter is preserved in a water-sodium tripolyphosphate mixture that subtly affects flavor and texture. However, “wet” scallops still can be enjoyed by first soaking in a homemade saltwater solution: 4 cups cold water, ¼ cup fresh lemon juice and 2 tablespoons salt.

Being a dense, lean muscle means scallops can quickly go from perfectly done to overcooked and rubbery, requiring as few as 11⁄2 to 3 minutes of cooking per side, depending on size and preparation method. To achieve a caramelized exterior and moist, tender interior when sautéing, dry scallops completely, avoid overcrowding the pan and cook undisturbed over medium-high heat until barely opaque and firm. Though safe to eat, the small crescent-shaped side muscle, if present, can be tough when cooked, so often it is removed and discarded.

With an innate sweetness, scallops need little accoutrement but can stand up to bold flavors such as bacon or earthy mushrooms. They’re often cooked and served atop pastas or risottos and in light soups or green salads. Scallops also can be sliced thinly and served raw as crudo, in sushi or atop shaved vegetables. Enjoyed worldwide, scallops shine when paired with bright citrus, fresh herbs and fruits, sweet butter or cream, smoky spices, and spicy, fragrant flavors of Southeast Asian cuisines.

In the Clinic

One 3-ounce serving of cooked scallops has approximately 94 calories and is a great source of phosphorus (362 milligrams) and protein (approximately 17 grams). A serving also offers more than 25 percent of the daily value of selenium and vitamin B12 and is one of the richest food sources of choline. Scallops provide smaller amounts of potassium, zinc and other B vitamins.

Very low in total fat, scallops offer some heart-healthy monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats, including more than 100 milligrams per serving combined of the omega-3s eicosapentaenoic acid and docosahexaenoic acid.

One serving of scallops provides about 567 milligrams of sodium.

In Quantity

Scallops are highly valued and therefore come at a premium cost, so be sure to purchase from trusted seafood markets, grocery stores or online purveyors. Fresh scallops should be plump, firm and moist with a sweet smell. If scallops are unmarked and a fishmonger is unable to provide packaging information, “dry” scallops will be a creamy off-white color, even faintly pink; “wet” tend to be bright pearly white. If fresh is not an option, frozen scallops are a convenient alternative and should have a similar taste and texture when cooked.

Like all fresh seafood, scallops are highly perishable and are best when eaten the day of purchase. Refrigerate as soon as possible, wrapped loosely with a damp cloth or paper towel over a bowl of ice for up to two days. Frozen scallops can be stored in the freezer for up to three months.

Scallops for foodservice come fresh or frozen in multi-pack cases, typically are dry-packed and are marked in the United States by count per pound. Sea scallops average 20 to 30 per pound; smaller bay scallops are as few as 70 to up to 120 per pound; and diver scallops range from 10 to 30 per pound. Although most often sold as meat only, shucked scallops can be sourced — at a premium — with their shells to use in food styling presentation.

Heather A. Goesch, MPH, RDN, LDN, is a registered dietitian nutritionist specializing in maternal and general women’s nutrition in southeastern North Carolina. She is a Stone Soup blogger and author of heathergnutrition.com/modsblog.

Coconutty Corn Curry with Scallops

Developed by Michele Redmond 

Servings: 2
Serving size: 1 cup curry with 4 to 5 scallops (370 grams)
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 18 minutes

Ingredients

• ¾ pound sea scallops (about 8 to 10 scallops)
• 2½ tablespoons (40 milliliters) olive oil, divided
• 2 shallots, cut in half lengthwise, thinly sliced (about ½ cup)
• 1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger
• 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
• 13.5-ounce can (400 milliliters) light coconut milk
• 1 cup no-salt-added canned corn kernels
• 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) fresh lime juice
• 1 teaspoon serrano pepper, cut in half lengthwise, thinly sliced
• ¾ teaspoon turmeric

Directions

1. Place scallops on a plate, gently dry with a paper towel and remove any side muscles. In a medium skillet, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring periodically, for 2 to 3 minutes or until soft. Add ginger, garlic and coconut milk, stir periodically and simmer until thickened, about 6 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to low, add corn and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add lime juice and serrano and remove from heat.
2. Place turmeric in a small bowl. Lightly press one flat side of each scallop into the turmeric to coat, then place scallops back on the plate with the spiced side up. Pour remaining turmeric into the curry and stir to combine.
3. Add remaining olive oil to another medium skillet over medium heat. When close to smoking, after 1 to 2 minutes, add scallops spiced side down. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until a brown crust forms, then flip scallops with a spatula. Cook 1 additional minute until flesh is opaque and firm, then remove from heat. Divide curry into 2 bowls and top with scallops.

Nutrition per serving: CALORIES 508; TOTAL FAT 31g; SAT. FAT 11g; CHOL. 41mg; SODIUM 738mg; CARB. 36g; FIBER 5g; SUGARS 13g; PROTEIN 24g; POTASSIUM N/A; PHOSPHORUS N/A

Note: Nutrition information for potassium and phosphorus in light coconut milk not available.

My recipe is made from one part light rye flour to two parts bread flour, and incorporates olive oil and molasses, which all contribute to a  hearty-yet-fluffy bread. Sweet licorice-like caraway seeds add a gentle crunch and drive home the classic flavor.

Marbled rye is not the easiest to put together, but with a little hands-on effort, this beautifully decorative bread is definitely worth it. My marbling is created by layering and rolling portions of plain rye dough with portions of the same dough darkened with cocoa powder. The end result was faint — next time I might increase the amount of cocoa or try a cocoa-espresso powder combo to give it a boost.

In order to have your two doughs ready to marble at the same time, measure out all your ingredients — and combine dry ingredients, for both the light and dark doughs — in advance. This significantly streamlines the process, ensuring that both dough portions are done rising and ready to work with within minutes of each other.

Devote a cool morning to baking, turn up the oven fires, and turn out warmth, yeasty aromas, and a fancy yet homey bread. I do hope you try for yourself!

Marbled Rye Bread 

Makes: 1 very large loaf (about 28 thin slices) 

Ingredients

For the light rye dough  

• 3 ounces, or roughly ¾ cups, light rye flour
• 6¾ ounces, or roughly 1½  cups, unbleached bread flour
• ¾ teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon instant yeast
• 1 teaspoon caraway seeds (optional)
• ¾ cup + 1 tablespoon lukewarm water, between 110° and 115° F, divided
• 1 teaspoon molasses
• 1 tablespoon olive oil

For the dark rye dough 

• ¾ cup light rye flour
• 6¾ ounces, or roughly 1½ cups, unbleached bread flour
• ¾ teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon  instant yeast
• 1 teaspoon  caraway seeds (optional)
• ¾ cup + 1 tablespoon lukewarm water, between 110° and 115° F, divided
• 1 teaspoon molasses
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder, whisked into 1 tablespoon water to form a paste

Instructions

FOR THE LIGHT RYE PORTION:

1. In a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, briefly stir together the flours, salt, yeast and caraway seeds, if using. Add ¾ cup warm water, molasses and olive oil to a large liquid measuring cup or small bowl and stir to combine.
2. Pour liquid ingredients into the dry, and mix with your hands, a wooden spoon or a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, on low, until a rough dough is formed. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a spatula or dough scraper to help incorporate any of the remaining dry bits. Continue to knead with your hands or stand mixer, with speed increased to medium-low, until dough comes together in a cohesive ball, adding 1 tablespoon water only if needed. The dough is ready when it is smooth, springs back when gently pressed, and is tacky but not sticky to the touch or sticking to the sides of the bowl.
3. Knead the dough a few times on a lightly floured surface to help form it into a ball. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, and roll it around to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature or inside a turned-off oven until doubled in volume, about 90 minutes.

FOR THE DARK RYE PORTION:

1. Immediately after completing the light rye portion, repeat the same process as above for the dark rye portion, adding the cocoa-water paste to the liquid mixture before adding it to the dry ingredients. Following the same process for kneading, transferring to oiled bowl and covering lightly with plastic wrap for 90 minutes or until doubled in volume. This portion should be done proofing only a few minutes after the light rye.

MARBLING AND BAKING

1. When both doughs are risen, line a large baking tray with parchment paper or a baking mat. Place the dough balls onto a lightly floured surface, and divide and shape each ball into 2 evenly sized oblong circles, roughly 8 inches long and 5 inches wide. Stack the dough portions on top of one another (see photo at right), alternating light and dark, to total 4 layers.
2. Starting from the long side, roll the four layers tightly to form a log, pressing the dough together with your fingers as you go and pinching the final seam as best you can. Very briefly — otherwise your marbling won’t be as prominent — use the palms of your hands to gently roll the loaf back and forth, working from the center out toward the ends, to help stretch and seal the dough.
3. Transfer the dough, seam-side down, to a baking tray and drape a piece of oiled plastic wrap loosely over the top. Rest again, at room temperature, until almost doubled in volume, between 60 to 90 minutes.
4. Preheat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. Remove plastic from the dough. If you wish, cut a few ¼-inch-deep slits on a diagonal across the top of the loaf. Bake, rotating the tray once at halfway point, until the bread is golden brown and cooked through, about 40 to 45 minutes. When done, the bread should sound hollow when tapped on the bottom, and an instant-read thermometer should register 190°F.
5. Remove the bread from the oven and transfer to a wire rack. Cover with a light kitchen towel for a more tender crust and soft interior. Cool completely, at least 1 hour, before slicing or storing.
6. Bread will keep 3 to 5 days in a sealed plastic bag or container on the counter. For longer storage, slice the bread in half and wrap first with plastic, then foil. Freeze the wrapped loaf in a tightly-sealed freezer bag or container up to 1 month. To enjoy from the freezer: Remove the bread from its container and thaw in wrapping for 30 to 60 minutes at room temperature. Preheat the oven to 425ºF, and bake 3 to 5 minutes. Alternatively, thaw the bread overnight in its container and wrapping on the counter. Slice and eat as desired!

Other benefits include dietary fiber, vitamins and phytochemicals. Seeds are linked to improved cardiovascular, digestive, immune and bone health; research suggests regular consumption of seeds may contribute to management of blood sugar and appetite as well as bone mineral density and may help lower risk for obesity and certain cancers.

Seeds by definition are a plant’s unit of reproduction, and their sources are as diverse as their sizes and colors: Pepitas are the hulled seeds of a pumpkin. Chia is a member of the mint family. Beautiful flowering plants are the sources of poppy, sunflower, nigella and mustard seeds. Hemp is in the same botanical family as marijuana, but its seeds lack the high-inducing chemical tetrahydrocannabinol, better known as THC. Sesame seeds develop in triangular-shaped pods on plants that can reach 9 feet tall. And flaxseed comes from an annual herb also harvested for linen fiber.

More than fodder for a backyard bird feeder, seeds are a flavorful treat for people, too — with each type offering unique nutritional benefits. They are great for snacking or added to yogurt and smoothies, grains, soups or salads for pops of color and crunch, but it’s important to remember that moderation is key.

Choose raw and toast at home, if desired, to limit calories, oils, salt and other additives. Store “spice” seeds such as mustard, poppy and nigella in tightly sealed containers in the pantry away from heat and sunlight. To prevent rancidity and extend shelf life of seeds with higher oil contents such as flax, chia, hemp, pepitas, sunflower and sesame, store tightly wrapped in the refrigerator or freezer.

Chia seed

An excellent source of magnesium and a good source of calcium, this mild seed has nearly 10 grams of fiber, 5 grams of protein and more omega-3s than salmon per ounce. Use it as a crunchy topping or mixed with liquid to form a gel for an egg replacement, nutrient-rich drink or tapioca-like pudding.

Flax seed

Rich in fiber and heart-healthy omega-3 alphalinolenic acid, flax seed (also called linseed) is one of the best sources of antioxidant plant lignans. There’s little difference between golden and brown varieties of flax, both of which can be ground just before using to enhance absorption. Oil imparts a gentle toasty flavor to vinaigrettes.

Hemp seed

One of the few plant foods containing the proper proportion of all nine essential amino acids for humans, hemp seed has 10 grams of protein per ounce and is a good source of polyunsaturated fats. “Hearts” are shelled versions of this round seed with a texture similar to pine nuts and a mild grassy taste. Use hemp seed oil for finishing dishes or making vinaigrettes.

Mustard seed

The world’s most heavily traded spice, yellow, brown or rarer black mustard seeds are all members of the family Brassica that includes cruciferous vegetables. Per ounce, mustard seeds contain 7 grams of protein and are a rich source of the antioxidant mineral selenium. Most commonly ground into mustard, this seed also is essential for pickling.

Nigella

The dull black seed of a flowering plant native to South Asia, nigella (also called charnushka) has almost 10 grams of fiber per ounce. Similar in appearance to black sesame with a bitter, smoky aroma and a nutty, peppery flavor, it’s often used to top Middle Eastern, Eastern European or Indian breads.

Pepita

Pepitas (also known as pumpkin seeds) are an excellent source of monounsaturated fats, magnesium and phosphorous, and a good source of iron and zinc. Plus, they have more than 8 grams of protein per ounce. These vibrant green seeds are delicious roasted for a snack or used to top salads, soups and breads.

Poppy seed

Often seen on breads, or paired with lemon or beets, poppy seeds are an excellent source of calcium, a good source of iron and contain 5 grams of protein and nearly 6 grams of dietary fiber per ounce. The tiny bluish-black seeds also are a featured ingredient in Eastern European Christmas tortes.

Sesame seed

An excellent source of iron and calcium, sesame seeds (also known as benne seeds) are used whole in savory and sweet baking, ground into tahini or pressed for flavorful oil. Unhulled varieties are more nutrient-rich; black seeds have a toasty and smoky flavor.

Sunflower seed

Found inside black-and-white striped hulls, one ounce of hulled sunflower seeds is rich in vitamin E and is a good source of folate. With a low smoke point, sunflower oil can be used in cooking as well as salad dressings. Sunflower butter can be used as an alternative to peanut butter.

Product Reviewed:
Paderno World Cuisine 4-Blade Spiralizer

Is a spiralizer a necessary kitchen item? No. Is it a fun tool to have? You bet! An upgrade over their original three-blade model, the Paderno World Cuisine 4-Blade Spiralizer is made of dishwasher-safe, BPA-free plastic and has suctioned feet to prevent slipping, a smaller corer to reduce waste, a tray to collect the falling spirals, and a body that folds in on itself to reduce its kitchen footprint. Additionally, the upgrade has four interchangeable stainless steel blades that tuck into the base’s covered shelves.

The three “ribbon” blades, as I call them, yield long curls ranging from super-thin to slightly thicker spaghetti-sized to downright chunky like Japanese udon. The flat blade creates wide spirals similar to the threads on a screw. It also shreds layered items such as cabbage and onion. And, while the arm has 23 sharp spikes to stabilize items up to nine-and-a-half inches long, it’s still helpful to cut longer or particularly thin or curvaceous items in half. After a few tries, I found it best to use my left thumb to push the handle while spiralizing with the right (or vice versa, if you’re a lefty).

Forget about spiralizing small, squishy or hollow produce — Brussels sprouts, tomatoes, bananas, berries, green beans and bell peppers are out. Instead, your best bets are sturdy fruits and vegetables (apples, Asian pears, carrots, summer squash, zucchinis, seedless cucumbers, eggplants and beets) served raw, or starchier produce (parsnips, rutabagas, turnips and potatoes) that have been steamed or sautéed.

This spiralizer can make fresh produce more palatable to particular eaters, get kids involved in the kitchen and help anyone minimizing or eliminating wheat or gluten-containing products from their diets. Relying only on a firm grip and arm strength to use, the Paderno World Cuisine 4-Blade Spiralizer may pose a problem for those with limited or compromised musculature or the elderly. It would also be relatively cumbersome for someone wanting to make very large quantities of spiralized produce in a short amount of time, such as someone working in foodservice.

If spiralized fruit and vegetables are routinely on the menu at home, this product’s speed, simplicity and versatility may outweigh its higher sticker price and size. As someone who appreciates the artistry of knife skills, I’m surprised at how much I enjoy this product and can’t wait to experiment this summer on a shredded raw kohlrabi and fennel salad!

When I see those slender green spears wrapped in tidy, uniform bunches standing so straight and tall at the local markets and farm stands, impulse takes over and I end up with far more than could be eaten in a normal amount of time. If you experience similar asparagus-induced purchasing issues — but aren't sure what to do with all those spears beyond simply freezing or eating raw, steamed, sautéed or grilled — pickle them!

The Health Benefits of Asparagus

In addition to its fabulous flavor, asparagus is packed with vitamins K, A and C, calcium and potassium — important for bone, skin, nail, hair and eye health. One of the richest sources of B vitamins, particularly folic acid, asparagus helps regulate levels of blood sugar and homocysteine, and is an extremely beneficial addition to a fertility and pregnancy diet.

Asparagus also contains an impressive number of antioxidants. One antioxidant in particular, glutathione, plays an important role in regulating protein synthesis and the prevention of certain cancers and diseases. Chromium, a trace mineral found in asparagus, enhances insulin’s ability to effectively transport glucose from the blood into our cells. Asparagus also has a high fiber content and contains the carbohydrate "polyfructan" inulin, which helps support good digestive health.

Let's Pickle Some Asparagus

I assure you that pickled vegetables — when done well — are worthy of praise and a feature on your plate, not to be pushed aside or tossed to the squirrels at a barbecue. Even better are simple, fresh, vibrant quick pickles. We're big fans in my house, and these spicy asparagus pickles do not disappoint. Furthermore, the lacto-fermentation gives your body a jump-start on breaking down nutrients, which can improve absorption of all those vitamins and minerals!

Unsurprisingly, we frequently found ourselves deep in conversation with the locals — typically about eating and drinking, preferably over a bowl of something steamy or a pint of something dark and frothy. In addition to their excellence at preparing their bounty skillfully and serving it generously, the Irish we met spoke with intense pride about the things they grow, raise, harvest, make, brew and cook. There was literally a story behind every mouthful, and we attempted to unravel each.

The definition of a successful holiday for us is to not only seek the roads less traveled, but, along the way, collect delicious things to cook with. Standouts from Ireland ranged from heritage pork and parsnips to cured salmon and farmhouse cheeses. Blessed with 900 miles of coastline, it’s no surprise we often turned to the Irish waters for our meals, and hidden in plain sight along the southern shores are some of the world’s best mussels. The freshest, sweetest, juiciest ones we’ve ever eaten.

To highlight the locally harvested Roaring Water Bay mussels, we kept the recipe simple. To honor the region, we included just a few other Irish ingredients: smoky dry-cured bacon “rashers,” ruffled savoy cabbage and a mild, grassy leek. And, instead of the wine that is traditional in preparations such as this, we included a new favorite local brew — several glugs for the mussels, the rest for the table. We easily ate a half-kilo of mussels each.

Ending our journey — like sopping up the juices in our bowls — left us wanting more. It was a bittersweet departure, but we are thankful for the experience and full of resolve to return someday soon.

Product Reviewed:
All-Clad PC8 Precision Stainless Steel Pressure Cooker

I was equally delighted and terrified at the proposal to review a pressure cooker. As someone who spends many hours in the kitchen, it was time to conquer my fear. The All-Clad PC8 Precision Stainless Steel Pressure Cooker — with not one, not two, but five protections to ensure safety while cooking —helped me do exactly that, turning out low-and-slow-cooking recipes in a fraction of the time.

This stovetop product comes with a beautiful 8.4-quart stainless steel stockpot featuring wide handles and a heavy-duty base that can be used on any cooktop, including induction. Minus three easily removed pieces on the lid, the entire cooker is dishwasher-safe for easy clean-up. Four pre-programmed settings and a steaming trivet make it easy to prepare braises and roast meats, rice and beans, stews and stocks, vegetables and eggs – all of which and more can be explored in the included tip- and recipe-heavy guide.

Known for their ability to turn out low-and-slow-cooking recipes in a fraction of the time, the PC8-Precision pressure cooker is no exception. After familiarizing myself with what the series of beeps represented, I tested a variety of recipes. Traditionally long-braising beef short ribs were falling off the bone in less than an hour. Dried beans and hard-boiled eggs were perfectly done. Thai coconut chicken thighs tender and juicy. A mixed seafood paella turned out more like risotto, but was delicious all the same. The standout: smoked mole turkey breast that was started on the grill and finished in the pressure cooker. Using the All-Clad PC8-Precision, this lean, often dried-out portion was anything but, and burst with the flavors of smoke and our homemade mole – a Thanksgiving triumph that’s sure to make a repeat appearance on many more occasions.

The cost is definitely steep, but the high quality and versatility of this All-Clad piece make it an investment that will last for years and years. Its large capacity makes it ideal for families and those who frequently entertain. The ability to simply and quickly cook staples such as hearty whole grains and beans may be of particular benefit to vegetarians, vegans and the generally health-minded. And, for anyone minding calories or on a restricted fat diet, there is little to no need for added oils or fats with this high-pressure method.

The All-Clad PC8-Precision is a workhorse, and can be a practical (and not scary!) addition to any kitchen – from the everyday home cook to a professional chef. If you’re dubious, I recommend direct exposure therapy to allay your fears. It worked for me, and I’m hooked!

Smoked Mole Turkey Breast with Mole Sauce

Recipe by Heather Goesch, MPH, RDN, LDN

Ingredients

Mole Rub

• 2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds
• 1 tablespoon whole fennel seeds
• 1 tablespoon yellow or brown mustard seeds
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 1 tablespoon dried Mexican oregano or marjoram
• 1 tablespoon salt
• ⅓ cup medium-hot chili powder
• ¼ cup good-quality unsweetened cocoa powder
• 2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon granulated garlic
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Apple Cider Brine

• 1 cup water
• ½ cup apple cider or unsweetened apple juice
• ½ green apple, unpeeled
• ¼ navel orange, unpeeled
• 1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds
• 1 small garlic clove, crushed
• 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• ¼ cup light brown sugar
• ½ cup kosher salt
• 3 cups ice cubes

• 1 to 1½ pounds boneless, skinless turkey breast
• 1 quart wood chunks or chips, such as hickory, apple or cherry
• ½ cup apple cider or unsweetened apple juice

Directions

1. To make mole rub: toast cumin, fennel and mustard seeds in a dry heavy-bottomed or cast-iron pan over medium heat until fragrant and beginning to smoke, about 5 minutes. Add seeds to the bowl of a spice grinder or small food processor and set aside to cool, 5 to 10 minutes. (You can also use a mortar and pestle to crush and combine everything by hand.) Add remaining ingredients and grind until you have a fine powder. The rub can be made up to 2 weeks in advance and stored, tightly covered, at room temperature or in the refrigerator.
2. To make apple cider brine: In a large pot, combine all of the ingredients (except ice cubes) and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar and salt, 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the ice cubes. Let stand until completely cool, about 1 hour. Transfer to a large, deep, nonreactive container or large zipper-top bag that will hold the turkey breast. Add turkey breast to brine container a let sit for 4 to 6 hours in the refrigerator.
3. Remove turkey from the brine container to a rimmed plate or baking dish. Pat dry and discard the brine. Let the turkey rest, uncovered or lightly draped with a piece of plastic wrap, in the refrigerator 12 hours or overnight.
4. Two hours before preheating the grill, place wood chunks or chips in a large container of water to soak.
5. At least 1 hour before grilling, use your hands to fully coat the turkey with the mole rub (reserving at least ⅓ cup of mole rub for use later). Return the rubbed turkey to the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Then, allow it to rest at room temperature for another 30 minutes as you prepare the grill.
6. If using a gas grill, about 20 minutes before grilling, preheat grill for indirect, medium-low heat (about 250°F to 275°F). Drain the wood chunks or chips. Fold a large piece of heavy-duty foil in half. Transfer the drained wood chips to the center of the double-thick piece of foil, fold the edges up and crimp to form a sealed packet. Poke several holes in the top to allow smoke to escape. (You could also use a shallow disposable aluminum baking tray with a few holes poked in the bottom.) If your gas grill has a smoking box, place the chips directly into the box. Set the tray on a grill rack directly over one of the burners under the grill grate.
7. If using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn to medium ash with a faint glow (about 250°F to 275°F). Drain the wood chunks or chips. Add the drained chips directly on top of the coals.
8. Brush the grill grate clean and coat it with a high-smoke-point oil. Place the rubbed turkey breast on the oiled rack, close the lid, and cook for about 1 hour. Turn once. If your grill has a temperature gauge, it should stay around 250°F.
9. Transfer the turkey breast to your unheated pressure cooker, with ⅓ cup of the remaining dry mole rub, ½ cup apple cider and ½ cup warm water. Lock the pressure cooker’s lid in place. Select the “Meat” program, set a cooking time of 15 minutes and follow the user manual’s instructions from there.
10. When the final beep sounds, release the pressure and carefully remove the lid. Using an instant-read thermometer, the internal temperature should be 165° F (the temperature will rise another 5° to 10° F while resting). If it isn’t yet 165°F, return the cooker to medium-high heat, covered but unlocked, and cook for a few more minutes.
11. After the turkey reaches an internal temperature of 165°F, remove to a clean cutting board and let it rest, tented with a piece of foil for 5 to 10 minutes.
12. Prepare the sauce by continuing to cook the contents of the cooker over medium-high heat until slightly thickened, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, taste, and adjust seasonings as necessary. Transfer the mole sauce to a small dish for serving.
13. After turkey has finished resting, slice the meat thinly. Serve meat with mole sauce. Serves 4 to 6.

Cooking Notes

• Don’t be deterred by this recipe’s length! The steps are mostly hands-off and the reward is fantastic. Be sure to read the recipe all the way through first to ensure you have all of the ingredients on hand and ready when needed.
• This recipe calls for a smaller-sized boneless, skinless turkey breast (we carved our own from a whole turkey). If yours is larger, simply double or triple the apple cider brine recipe to ensure the breast is completely submerged in liquid.
• The smoky-spicy-chocolaty mole rub recipe makes more than enough for what you’ll need here. Store extra in an airtight container in the pantry or refrigerator for later use.
• If you don’t have a grill, the turkey breast can be cooked entirely in the pressure cooker — simply increase the cooking time to 20 minutes.

Moderate intake of alcohol (and, before I go on, read this: Please drink in moderation, and only if medically and legally able to do so. According to the Dietary Guidelines for Americans, moderate alcohol consumption is defined as "up to 1 drink per day for women and up to 2 drinks per day for men.") may increase "good" HDL cholesterol, lower "bad" LDL cholesterol and reduce the risk of blood clotting. It has also been linked to a lower incidence of gallstones, reduced risk of some cancers and decreased risk of Type 2 diabetes.

Bitter apéritifs such as Campari used in this recipe are sometimes consumed to stimulate the appetite by promoting production of digestive juices and enzymes, and were historically used to lessen symptoms of gastrointestinal issues. Made from a variety of red and white wine grapes, vermouth may help prevent heart disease by improving cholesterol levels and protecting against artery damage.

Blackberries, meanwhile, provide folic acid, fiber and vitamin C. They also have one of the highest antioxidant contents per serving of any food, including phytonutrients such as anthocyanin, associated with prevention of certain cancers, heart disease and the age-related loss of cognitive function. Cheers!