Christy Wilson – Food & Nutrition Magazine

The Humble Quince: Apple and Quince Skillet Crisp

Christy Wilson — Fri, 10 Nov 2017 10:00:32 +0000

As long as I can remember, the quince tree in my parent’s back yard has produced bunches of fruit every fall. As a child, I’d look out our kitchen window and see the branches of this gnarled tree weighed down by dense, green, knobby fruit coated with grey fuzz. While our neighbors grew tender apricots, savory pecans and sweet blackberries, I wondered why, of all things, we had a quince tree. I asked my mom this question repeatedly over the years and her response was unfailingly consistent: “Your father grew up eating membrillos (quince) and wanted to plant a tree in the yard when we moved into our house.”

My dad grew up in the small northern Mexican town of Magdalena, Sonora, located about 50 miles south of my hometown, Nogales, AZ. Quinces were one of several foods the 17^th century Jesuit missionary Father Eusebio Francisco Kino is credited with bringing to this area. His extensive work with the native people living in the harsh desert lands of Baja California, southern Arizona and northern Mexico included helping expand the agricultural diversity by introducing crops such as white Sonoran wheat, pink lentils and quince. To this day, quince trees continue to flourish in these areas. Internationally, quince is commonly grown in Turkey, western Asia, southeastern Europe and parts of Latin America, including Chile.

Out of the 15 varieties that exist, some quinces are strictly ornamental, but the common variety, Cydonia oblonga, becomes softer and less bitter when allowed to fully ripen on the tree. Though not as popular or attractive as its botanical cousins pears and apples, quince has a remarkably high pectin content that makes it ideal for jams, jellies and marmalades.

I’ve always eaten quince raw with a splash of fresh lime juice and a sprinkle of salt and chili powder. I’ve also tried empanadas de membrillo, where the fruit is cooked into a sweet, think jelly (ate de membrillo) and encased in a dough made with shortening or butter. In an effort to make a light and healthy dessert, I came up with a Quince and Apple Skillet Crisp recipe. I’ve paired quince with crisp apples and heightened the sweetness with a little brown sugar and dried cranberries and cherries. Seasoning and simmering the fruits, then adding my favorite granola and a scoop of ice cream is a perfect way to incorporate the humble quince into a fun and flavorful recipe.

Quince and Apple Skillet Crisp

Makes 8 ½-cup servings

Ingredients

2 tablespoons apple juice
1 tablespoon cornstarch
¾ cup honey crisp apple, cored, peeled and diced into ¼-inch cubes (about 1 apple)
¾ cup Granny Smith apple, cored, peeled and diced into ¼-inch cubes (about 1 apple)
¾ cup quince, diced into ¼ inch cubes (about 1 to 2 quince)
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
½ teaspoon cinnamon
¼ teaspoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons canola oil
¼ cup dried cranberries
¼ cup dried cherries
1 cup prepared granola
2 cups slow churned vanilla ice cream

Directions

In a small bowl, combine apple juice and cornstarch.
In a medium bowl, combine diced apples, quince, brown sugar, cinnamon and lemon juice, then pour cornstarch slurry over it and stir to combine.
Add oil to a large nonstick skillet over medium heat.
Add apple mixture to the skillet, spreading evenly over the bottom of the pan. Cook, stirring constantly, until browned but not mushy, around 5 minutes.
Add cranberries and cherries. Stir to combine and heat through.
Add granola to fruit mixture and reduce heat to low.
Flatten fruit and granola mixture with the back of a wooden spoon, cover with lid and cook for an additional 1 to 2 minutes.
Serve immediately topped with ice cream. Dust with cinnamon, if desired.

Cooking with the Power of the Sun

Christy Wilson — Tue, 30 May 2017 19:21:08 +0000

PHOTO: CHRISTY WILSON, RD

Product Reviewed:
GoSun® Sport solar oven

When you live in the desert Southwest, there are no shortage of sunny days. One way to make the most of all the sunshine is to cook with it! I recently tried out the GoSun® Sport solar oven and was impressed on several levels. Not only was it easy to set up, the cooking chamber heated up evenly and quickly, and it cooked my foods as well as any conventional oven or grill. The best part was that instead of using traditional fuels like gas, charcoal, wood or electricity, my food was cooked to perfection with the power of the sun.

As long as there is sunlight, the GoSun® cooker can reach temperatures of more than 550ºF (290ºC) and can cook a meal in as little as 20 minutes. Unlike other boxy, bulky solar ovens, GoSun®’s slim design allows you to fold up the two aluminum reflectors that protect the tubular glass oven, and the metal stand serves as a handle for easy portability.

When I opened up the box, I loved the fact that no assembly was required. I simply removed the plastic wrapping from the reflectors and cooking tube, attached the wooden handle and washed the cooking tray. Important to note is that both preheating the cooker and placing cold foods inside of it can cause thermal shock that may damage the glass cooking chamber. Also, the rubber stopper at the end of the cooking tube has a small depression that allows steam to escape, so make sure that vent isn’t blocked and is facing upward.

I liked that the GoSun® Sport cooking tube heated up evenly and kept potatoes moist and tender, which helped maintain great texture, flavor and nutrition. The concave cooking tray allows for heating up liquids like coffee or tea, combo-textured food like soups, as well as solid foods like meat and vegetables. Also, the outside of the tube stays cool to the touch no matter how hot the inside gets. This feature is especially important when kids are around and curious about the unique-looking cooker that effectively and efficiently uses solar energy to cook up a variety of tasty foods!

On a warm, clear and sunny day, I prepared my Solar-Cooked Seasoned Potatoes. About three cups of diced potatoes fit well inside the tray. To ensure the potatoes cooked evenly, I cut them uniformly and avoided piling them on top of each other. I angled the reflectors toward the sun and within 10 minutes, I could hear them start to cook. I checked the potatoes at the 25- and 35-minute mark, and they were fork-tender — and screaming hot! — at 45 minutes, a similar cooking time to most conventional ovens or gas grills. Curious to know how the GoSun® cooker performed on a cool, slightly windy and cloudy day, I tried the same recipe, and it took an additional 30 to 40 minutes for the potatoes to cook, so note that weather will affect total cooking time.

Solar-Cooked Seasoned Potatoes

Makes about 2 cups of potatoes

Ingredients

1½ cups diced russet potato
1½ cups diced sweet potato
1 clove minced garlic
1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Seasoning Mix

1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon paprika
¼ teaspoon ground pepper
¼ teaspoon salt

Directions

In a large bowl, combine potatoes, garlic and oil.
Combine all seasonings in a small bowl or jar and stir or shake to combine.
Sprinkle seasoning mixture over potatoes and toss to coat well. Place seasoned potatoes into cooking tray, spreading evenly.
Slide tray into cooking chamber. Be sure vent (depression) in the rubber stopper is pointing upwards.
Bake about 40 to 45 minutes, or until potatoes are fork tender.

Testing 3 Exercise Classes to Get Moving with Osteoarthritis

Christy Wilson — Fri, 16 Sep 2016 23:54:14 +0000

I have a love-hate relationship with exercise. I love how it makes me feel when it's over, but hate the mind games I have to play to get myself moving.

A few years ago, I had completely lost the love. My mental cheerleading capabilities failed and I caved to my own excuses: "I don't feel like exercising," "I'm too busy." But the most legitimate excuse? "It hurts." Pain in my hip from osteoarthritis resulting from corrective surgery I'd had as a baby always limited the duration of my physical activity, but it had never stopped me before. Despite living with mild chronic pain, I began using osteoarthritis as a cop-out to exercising. Me! Someone who knows better and helps others overcome these kinds of obstacles. Something had to change so I made a commitment to find a challenging, safe exercise that I'd enjoy and stick to for good.

Exercise #1: Dance-Based

After watching the infomercials and hearing how much my friends liked it, I decided to try a dance-based exercise class. I loved the tropical music, but after 15 minutes of "shaking my bon-bon," I realized this wasn't the challenge I was seeking.

Exercise #2: Hard Core P.E.

After listening to me rant about my exercise rut, a friend invited me to her 5 a.m. exercise class. With its high-rep calisthenics exercises and no-frills equipment, it felt like a high school P.E. class gone hard core. Challenging? Yes! My style? Not really. Guidance by the trainer was encouraging, but due to my physical limitations, I had to modify several moves, which made me feel like I couldn't keep up with the crowd. I felt this class would eventually cause me more frustration and pain than joy. My search continued.

Exercise #3: Spin

I have always loved riding my bike, but for some reason spin class at the gym intimidated me. I finally felt ready to give it a try. The instructor guided a 60-minute, self-paced class that was easy to follow, challenging and, amazingly, simulated an outdoor bike ride. As I visualized riding on a flat road to conquering a tough seated hill, the class stimulated my body and my mind. As long as I maintained proper form, my hip wasn't aggravated and I could concentrate on enjoying the ride. By the end, I was sweating buckets, out of breath and on a mental high — I loved it and couldn't wait to come back! I found my perfect match.

What Living with Osteoarthritis Is Like

After years of denial, I've accepted my physical limitations and have gained an appreciation for activities I can still do living with osteoarthritis. This degenerative, chronic condition can't be cured, but its progression can be slowed if I continue exercising safely and regularly, manage my weight and eat foods that control inflammation and help keep my muscles and bones strong.

Some of these foods include cold-water fish such as tuna and salmon (with bones); bright and deep pigmented fruits and vegetables brimming with phytonutrients such as berries, citrus and leafy greens; and high-fiber foods such as beans and whole grains. Many of these foods also have bone-building vitamins and minerals such as vitamin D, vitamin K, calcium and magnesium.

While neither exercise nor diet alone will fix my osteoarthritis, keeping good, consistent lifestyle habits will contribute to my overall quality of life, health and happiness.

The Kitchen Essential You Can Find at the Hardware Store

Christy Wilson — Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:47:31 +0000

Whether you are trussing a holiday turkey, tying a bundle of fresh herbs for a bouquet garni or securing parchment paper around freshly baked banana bread, a spool of kitchen twine is handy to have around. Unlike other culinary essentials — like a chef's knife or mixing bowl — twine can be found at either a high-end kitchen supply store or your local hardware store. Its availability speaks to its practicality from kitchen to workshop.

Twine goes by different names, and several varieties exist. The best and safest type for cooking is made of 100-percent natural cotton and labeled as butcher, kitchen or cooking twine, which is sturdy and withstands high-heat cooking. A linen and cotton fabric mixture also is safe for cooking. It's durable and will not impart flavor onto cooked food. Still, if you're going to expose twine to a close-range open flame, first soak it in water or broth for about one minute to avoid burning.

For pennies per yard, here are a few ways to experiment with twine while cooking:

Shape meats, fish or sponge cakes into a roulade by laying down several long pieces of twine, rolling the ingredients together and securing the twine ends into a knot.
Make sachets of herbs for soup, stock or broth by placing any variety of fresh or dried herbs into the center of a square of cheesecloth and tie the corners together.
Suspend a cheesecloth bag of vegetables and animal bones in a large pot of water for a flavorful stew or broth.
Tie a soufflé collar around a ramekin to keep the top of a high-rising soufflé intact.
Truss poultry, or firmly fasten the legs and wings against the body, to help the meat maintain shape and cook evenly.

Cooking Twine vs. Baker's Twine

Unlike cooking twine, baker's twine is a thin type of string made of both cotton and polyester. This "candy cane" red-and-white twisted string is not typically used for cooking, but for wrapping and binding baked goods. Baker's twine has gained popularity for its many uses in crafting. It's designed to be snapped by hand rather than cut with the sharp blade needed for cooking twine.

Other varieties of string or thin rope that may appear safe to cook with likely are not. Synthetic materials — including plastics, polyester or nylon — often are mixed into cotton fabrics. These materials can degrade under heat and melt into foods while cooking, which not only may affect the flavor of the food, but also can cause an allergic reaction or gastrointestinal distress to those eating it.

There’s More to Rice Cookers than Just Rice

Christy Wilson — Fri, 28 Aug 2015 23:14:41 +0000

Cultures around the world have been cooking rice using various methods for centuries — from soaked and boiled basmati rice in India to sticky, steamed medium-grain rice in Japan and boiled, spiced rice with vegetables and Andouille sausage in American Cajun-Creole jambalaya. Rice and rice cookery are important components of many customs and diets.

Although the basics of rice preparation haven't changed (rice + liquid + heat), the vessels in which it is cooked have evolved. Most recently, electric rice cookers have become a more common kitchen appliance. In 1955, the Toshiba Corporation launched its first commercially successful electric rice cooker in Japan. It outperformed versions developed years prior by the Japanese Imperial Army and Mitsubishi because it was the first set-it-and-forget-it cooker that consistently produced fluffy rice.

Technological advancements have led to even more enhancements, such as digital menus, sensors to detect when liquid is absorbed and automatic timing adjusters. From three-cup countertop cookers to industrial 100-cup versions, the rice cooker is an efficient, convenient way to effortlessly prepare its namesake food.

But don't pigeonhole the rice cooker as a single-purpose kitchen appliance. As adventurous cooks tap into the culinary potential of this electric wonder, rice cookers are being repurposed to prepare other grains, such as quinoa and millet, as well as breads, lentils and puddings. Beans and coarse grains, such as steel-cut oats and barley, require pre-soaking and a longer cooking time — but the results are tender and flavorful. Experiment with liquid-to-solid ratios when using a simple rice cooker; more advanced models may have special settings for different types of rice and porridge (or congee). Unlike other "unitasker" kitchen appliances, rice cookers offer more than what meets the eye.

Rice Cooker Frittata

One-pot meals may not have been the original intent, but the classic rice cooker does an excellent job making vegetable frittatas, fruit jams and soups.

Recipe by Christy Wilson, RDN

Ingredients

4 eggs
¼ teaspoon olive oil or butter
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
¼ cup white onion, diced
¼ cup red pepper, diced
½ teaspoon ground oregano
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
¼ cup shredded mozzarella cheese

Directions

Whisk eggs in a medium bowl and set aside.
Turn on the rice cooker (set to white rice setting if there are options) and add oil or butter to the nonstick pot of the rice cooker. As the pot gradually heats up, add garlic, onion and red pepper, and simmer until tender.
Add eggs, oregano, salt, pepper and cheese. Stir ingredients to combine and close lid.
Cook for approximately 12 to 15 minutes, or until the edges begin to brown and the eggs are firm on the bottom (time may vary per cooker). Use a silicone or nonstick-safe spatula to slice frittata into wedges and serve. Serves 4.

Nutrition Information

Serving size: 4 ounces

Calories: 104; Total fat: 7g; Saturated fat: 3g; Cholesterol: 192mg; Sodium: 261mg; Carbohydrates: 3g; Fiber: 1g; Sugars: 1g; Protein: 8g; Potassium: 116mg; Phosphorus: 131mg

Clamp-Lid Jars: Food Storage Comes in All Shapes and Sizes

Christy Wilson — Mon, 29 Jun 2015 22:26:17 +0000

Since the mid-1800s, food jars of all shapes and sizes have been staple items in kitchens around the world. From colorful and ornate glass containers to those with plain, smooth edges, jars are a great way to store and showcase foods and drinks. One of the most distinct containers is the clamp-lid jar. With its rubber seal and stiff wire closure, clamp-lid jars prove that functionality and aesthetics can coexist beautifully in the kitchen.

In 1882, when Henry W. Putnam patented a secure stopper for jars, glass was the primary material used for food storage containers. During the 1950s, a variety of lightweight, colorful and convenient plastic containers became a popular choice. But unlike naturally impermeable glass, plastic inevitably degrades over time.

Practical from dishwasher to cupboard to refrigerator, clamp-lid glass jars can be used (and recycled) indefinitely. Use them to store dry goods such as oats, beans and snack foods, or refrigerated foods in brine such as sauerkraut or pickled eggs. Clear glass varieties not only make for an attractive and organized display of dry goods on your countertop and shelves, but also are great storage containers for leftovers in your refrigerator, allowing you to see exactly what and how much food you have left inside the jar. The secure closure ensures the contents are sealed safely inside, and unlike with threaded screw-top jars that can be difficult to open, clamp-lid jars don’t require much wrist or hand strength to open and close.

Smaller clamp-lid jars are especially versatile. Seven- to 12-ounce containers are ideal for preparing and serving single-sized salads, beverages and casseroles. If making several at once, place them on a cookie sheet for easy handling. Enjoy the convenience, portability and unique design of clamp-lid jars throughout the kitchen and pantry, and even in your lunch bag.

Grab Hold of Skewers

Christy Wilson — Wed, 29 Apr 2015 03:27:02 +0000

While it may appear a bit "unrefined," eating food on a stick takes us back to a time when utensils didn't exist. Whether you call them skewers, brochettes or pinchos, cooking and serving a variety of foods speared by long sticks can be a fun, simple and healthy way to add flair to your next meal.

One of the most widely known uses of skewers is for cooking the Turkish classic, shish kebabs. Directly translated as "gobbets of roasted meat," traditional kebabs are made of bite-sized pieces of marinated lamb, beef, chicken, seafood or seasoned vegetables. Foods are threaded onto thin skewers and roasted or grilled over blazing coals or an open flame.

Several variations of the shish kebab can be found around the globe, including French-style en brochette dishes that may include shrimp and vegetables. Indonesian satays typically have meat paired with a savory dipping sauce. Spanish and Latin American tapas-style often combine meat, vegetables and bread.

Used for both cooking and serving food, skewers are typically made of wood or metal. Wood and bamboo varieties are generally intended for single use and should be soaked in water for 20 to 30 minutes prior to cooking to prevent charring or burning. Some cooks forgo water and soak skewers in juice, beer, wine, herb marinades or soy sauce to infuse foods with extra flavor as they cook. Metal rods, on the other hand, are sturdy and reusable. Handle these skewers with cooking mitts, as they absorb a lot of heat while lying on the grill.

Cooking with skewers is a unique way to serve flavorful, lower-calorie, portion-controlled meals. Since grilling and roasting require minimal added oil, fat and calories stay low. Given the limited amount of food each skewer can hold, portions are automatically controlled. Approximately one to four ounces of sliced or cubed meat, seafood or extra-firm tofu fits on each skewer, and smaller portions allow for added vegetables such as bell peppers, mushrooms and onions. Alternating between pieces of meat and fresh vegetables brightens up the dish while enhancing the nutrition and flavor of each kebab. Go sweet and grill fruit such as pineapple, peach and mango, or make fresh or frozen fruit kebabs using grapes, strawberries and kiwi. Be creative with the foods you add to skewers — the results will be both delicious and nutritious.

Versatile Ramekins Offer Portion Perfection

Christy Wilson — Mon, 29 Dec 2014 22:02:15 +0000

Cooking and serving food in uniform single-serve portions is the beauty of the small cylindrical dishes known as ramekins. Most commonly used for preparing baked items such as soufflés, crème brûlée and mini-casseroles, ramekins also can be used to serve soup, dips, condiments and small servings of just about anything.

With volume sizes ranging from four to eight ounces, ramekins (or ramequins) are generally wider than they are tall. They are available in various shapes and colors, but the most traditional designs are round, white and have a fluted texture on the exterior. The steep and straight sides of this hallmark design allow for the even "rise" one expects in a soufflé.

Ramekins can be purchased anywhere from high-end culinary shops to department stores and dollar stores. Traditionally made of glazed ceramic or porcelain, ramekins are also available in glass. Any high-tempered, heat-resistant material should withstand the high temperatures of an oven and direct heat from a cooking torch; however, ceramic ramekins tend to be thicker than the glass versions. While higher quality material may cost a bit more, ramekins made of cheaper, thinner material are more prone to cracking.

Besides baking single-serving breakfast casseroles, soufflés or chocolate molten lava cakes, ramekins can be used for a variety of cooking and serving purposes. These tips will help you get started:

To help prevent food from sticking, generously butter or oil ramekins prior to adding ingredients.
If working with a batter, avoid filling ramekins to the top. As ingredients cook they tend to rise, so it's best to fill bowls about two-thirds of the way to avoid spills.
Place ramekins on a cookie sheet for easier handling in and out of the oven. This also makes for easier clean-up if there happens to be any spillover.
For a clean, plated look, use ramekins for molding foods such as potatoes, risotto and quinoa. To make the perfect mold, spritz the bowl with cooking spray and gently pack your ingredient with the back of a spoon. Turn the ramekin upside down onto a plate and allow food to slide out.
Use ramekins to separate condiments, dips and sauces on a plate or serving platter.
Portion out small pieces of fruit such as grapes, blueberries or diced apples, and cooked or raw vegetable sticks. This looks nice and works especially well for serving foods to children.

Plant-based Populations

Christy Wilson — Thu, 27 Jun 2013 22:26:16 +0000

The Mahatma Gandhi chose vegetarianism based not solely on his cultural heritage but also on his beliefs about humanity and moral strength. He said: "I do feel that spiritual progress does demand at some stage that we should cease to kill our fellow creatures for the satisfaction of our bodily wants." For Gandhi, what began as a vow to his vegetarian mother to abstain from eating meat evolved into a deep understanding about human will, ethics, religion and health.

While some choose a plant-based diet for health or environmental reasons, deeply rooted spiritual beliefs tie vegetarianism to several world religions and cultures. Preceding Gandhi's meatless mission were ancient historical figures like Pythagoras of Samos and Gautama Buddha, who stated that "the eating of meat extinguishes the seed of great compassion."

Although several modern interpretations of a vegetarian lifestyle exist today (from solely avoiding meat and/or sea animals to extreme veganism that excludes all animal products and by-products), for many, vegetarianism's origins lie profoundly in religion, spirituality and nonviolence (or ahimsa in India) toward animals.

Food and Faith in Ancient India

Religion and vegetarianism are strongly tied to faiths originating from ancient India. Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism are three examples of Eastern religions that encourage or mandate that devotees follow a vegetarian diet.

Hindus and Buddhists are not universally vegetarian, but major paths in both faiths consider it ideal. Evident throughout Hindu text is a strong respect for animal life. Cows are particularly revered and even identified in certain scriptures as the mother of all civilization. The esteemed cow provides milk and dairy foods, transportation and religious inspiration to millions of Hindus in India. Some sects like the Hare Krishnas, abstain from eating meat, fish and fowl, as well as vegetables like onions, garlic and mushrooms; since these foods grow underground they're "in the mode of darkness (ignorance)" and therefore deemed undesirable.

Although there are no clear distinctions between forbidden and allowed foods, the primary figure of the Buddhist faith, Gautama Buddha, was one of the earliest prominent historical figures to speak about vegetarianism. Today, attitudes toward vegetarianism vary among the major branches or schools of Buddhism. The Mahayana schools are most commonly vegetarian, believing Buddha insisted his followers abstain from eating meat and fish. The Theravada and Vajrayana schools (which includes Tibetan Buddhism and Japanese Shingon) do not consider this a necessary practice.

Jainism is one of the world's oldest religions with one of the strictest faith-based diets. Jains consider ahimsa the most essential principle of their religious duty and hold it wrong to harm or kill any living being. Any act of violence (himsa) or the support of acts that kill or injure is believed to create harmful karma. Therefore, vegetarianism is an expected practice for all Jains. Like Hare Krishnas, Jains also exclude garlic, onion and some may even avoid potatoes and other root vegetables.

In the spirit of ancient Indian culture and tradition, some practitioners of yoga, like Hatha and Ashtanga, follow a vegetarian or vegan diet. The sattva diet is based on sattva guna (prime qualities of nature), which encompasses qualities of harmony, purity and balance. This traditional diet — rich in fresh, organic produce and whole grains, beans, nuts, and seeds — is considered harmonious with nature and helps conserve natural resources. Ideal foods in a sattva diet include fruits that have fallen from trees and milk from "happy" cows.

Vegetarianism and Abrahamic Religions

The world's largest religious groups include those originating from Western Asia: Judaism, Islam and Christianity. Historically, vegetarianism among these faiths has not been promoted into mainstream practice, but groups within each faith do practice it. The Bible Christian Church and Seventh-day Adventist Church advocate vegetarianism based on religious grounds and their holistic views about life and humankind.

Based on some interpretations of the biblical story of the Garden of Eden in the Book of Genesis, Adam, Eve and all creatures were instructed to eat plant foods and live in harmony with the animals. The Torah describes vegetarianism as ideal, but God also allowed meat to be eaten after the devastation caused by the Flood. Some vegetarians argue this permission to eat meat was temporary because the Flood wiped out all plants; some omnivores interpret this as permanent permission to eat meat and do so without ethical or spiritual objection.

Whether motivated by a respect for humans, faith, compassion for animals or concern about Earth's resources, following a diet that minimizes or omits meat or animal products is far from a passing trend: Vegetarianism holds a long and diverse history spanning millions of years. Cultures around the world have worked to preserve the integrity, historical and faith-based meanings to such diets. For millions, choosing foods has little or nothing to do with health or maintaining a diet. Rather, it has everything to do with preserving a culture, a religion or a faith, simply embodying a way of life.

Can Reviving Traditional Foods Improve Native Americans’ Health?

Christy Wilson — Mon, 29 Apr 2013 21:23:49 +0000

“Arrived at Desert Rain Cafe,” announces my GPS as I pull into the parking lot of the only shopping center on the Tohono O’odham reservation in Sells, Ariz., about an hour west of Tucson. Inside, a gray-haired O’odham woman smiles at me as she takes a sip of her thick, pink drink. “Is it good?” I ask. She raises her eyebrows and nods. “It’s a prickly pear smoothie. I think they sweeten it with agave. The chia berry smoothie is good, too!”

The Tohono O’odham people have been farming and cultivating prickly pear (or I’ipai in O’odham), agave (A’ud), tepary beans (Bawi) and cholla cactus buds (Ciolim) in this dry Southern Arizona desert for centuries. The name of the tribe means “Desert People,” and bringing back local culture from farm to plate is one mission the Tohono O’odham Community Action organization has been working on since 1996. After reviving abandoned farmland to grow the foods that once nourished a Native American nation now battling obesity and type 2 diabetes (the disease afflicts more than half of all tribe members), TOCA opened Desert Rain Cafe four years ago.

Every menu item features at least one traditional food grown on (or near) the reservation. To some, these foods are familiar or nostalgic, reminding them of a grandmother’s cooking. For others, this is an introduction not only to their traditional foods, but also to the legends, songs and language of their ancestors. Bringing these foods into a modern day restaurant menu, a school lunch program and gardening classes, O’odham and other Native American tribes across the U.S. are working toward restoring healthy and sustainable communities.

Rich Foods from Dry Lands

Until the second half of the 20th century, Native Americans living in the Pima region of Southern Arizona were almost entirely food self-sufficient. Through traditional Ak Chin or dry land farming methods, thousands of acres were used to grow white and brown tepary beans, corn and zucchini-like squash. They also harvested and dried wild foods such as small, green cholla buds and mesquite bean pods. Growing nutritionally rich foods on parched land required hours of intense physical labor that, though grueling, was both spiritually and culturally meaningful.

Songs, legends and stories passed down through generations — like how the Milky Way was created out of white tepary beans scattered across the sky — infused the work with cultural significance.

TOCA co-founder Tristan Reader recalls working with tribal elder and former schoolteacher Danny Lopez, who taught O’odham children traditional songs about planting and rain. “It was great, but it didn’t have a lot of power until the first time he brought a group of kids to our garden,” says Reader. “He talked to them about planting and then sang a planting song. This time, it felt like [the song and story] had been put back where it belonged.

Between a primarily plant-based diet and high level of physical activity, the O’odham population remained lean and healthy. But by the 1950s, tribe members would move away for months at a time to work on federal projects in surrounding irrigated cotton fields. With no one to tend the land at home, local crops began to vanish. And with limited income and resources to prepare traditional foods, the community became dependent on commodity programs that supplied foods such as flour, lard, cheese and canned foods.

“What else do you do with white flour and lard? You make dough, fry it and make fry bread,” says Reader. “You work with what you have available to you.” Decades later, foods such as fry bread and processed cheese have been part of the American Indian diet for a long time. In the O’odham Nation, getting people to switch to traditional healthy food can be difficult.

Strength through Celebration and Spirit

“I feel there has been a loss of traditional foods in our culture and part of my job is to preserve that by encouraging even small changes in peoples’ diets,” says Jamie Shirleson, RD. Growing up on the Navajo reservation in Northern Arizona, Shirleson recalls eating her grandmother’s blue corn meal mush (taa niil). Considered a sacred plant in Navajo culture, blue corn is ground and cooked into mush (like oatmeal) and traditionally prepared with ash made from burning juniper needles. The calcium in the juniper wood ash boosts the calcium content of taa niil.

Shirleson says she often finds people adding butter and sugar, so encouraging smaller amounts of these added calories while really highlighting the nutritional benefits of indigenous foods is one technique she finds most effective. “It’s not easy to change people’s eating habits, but it’s exciting when I see them incorporating positive changes to their diet,” she says. Indeed whether the goal is embracing cultural heritages or adopting healthful lifestyles, focusing on the positive more than the negative can be key — and there is a lot to celebrate about the native desert foods unique to this part of the world.

The Desert Rain Cafe makes traditional foods accessible to the community through flavorful modern interpretations such as squash enchiladas and tepary bean hummus. The beans, corn and squash are high in fiber and plant-based protein that helps to control glucose and cholesterol levels. The cafe’s cholla bud pico de gallo is a mildly spicy versatile mixture of vegetables that can be eaten by itself or with chili. Wild foods such as cholla buds and prickly pear fruit contain mucilage, a natural thickener with blood sugar lowering benefits — and cholla buds are a source of calcium.

Preserving these indigenous foods grown on American Indian land, in addition to the legends, language and spirit that come with them, is what tribal community organizations like TOCA are working toward for generations to come.

Sonoran Desert “Hummus”

Contributed by Desert Rain Cafe

Tepary beans are indigenous to the Sonoran Desert and a staple food of the Tohono O’odham. These highly drought resistant beans love long, slow cooking in a crock pot with a touch of salt. Their slightly sweet flavor and creamy texture makes them perfect for this delicious dip — but if you can’t find tepary beans, you can substitute white navy beans.

Ingredients
2 cups cooked white tepary beans
1⁄3 cup extra virgin olive oil
1⁄3 cup lemon juice
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1⁄4 teaspoon ground cumin seeds
salt and black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons salt-cured capers, rinsed
Hot sauce to taste
Fresh cilantro for garnish
Lemon wedges for garnish

Directions

Using a stick blender or hand-held food processor, puree the beans with the oil, lemon juice and garlic.
Drizzle in additional olive oil as necessary to achieve desired consistency — dip should be thick but not dry.
Mix in cumin, salt, pepper, capers and hot sauce to taste.
Garnish with cilantro and lemon wedges.

Nutrition Info
Serves 16
Serving size: 2 tablespoons

Calories: 70
Total Fat: 4.5g; Saturated Fat: 0.5g;
Cholesterol: 0mg; Sodium: 30mg
Carbohydrates: 6g; Fiber: 1g; Sugars: 0g
Protein: 2g; Potassium: 133mg; Phosphorus: 26mg
*Nutrient analysis based on using white navy beans instead of tepary beans.)

Taste Morocco with a Tagine

Christy Wilson — Mon, 07 Jan 2013 16:22:21 +0000

One of the most unique earthenware pots hails from Morocco. Rooted in Berber culinary tradition, the tagine (or tajine) is a two-piece portable clay oven that consists of a circular, shallow base dish and a cone- or dome-shaped cover that fits into the base. The tagine pot produces its namesake dish: a slow-cooked stew of vegetables (potato, carrots, peas), meat (usually lamb, chicken or fish) and a variety of regional herbs and spices like cinnamon, ginger, cumin and paprika. Nuts and fruits like prunes, apples, quince, preserved lemon and olives are also common ingredients in a traditional tagine dish.

About Tagines

There are serving tagines and cooking tagines. Serving tagines are typically made of porcelain and ornately painted. They haven’t been fired to withstand cooking and will break if exposed to high temperatures. Cooking tagines have been high-fired and can withstand low-to-medium direct heat or oven cooking. A heat diffuser is recommended for electric cooktops. Most tagines will have a small hole at the top for venting. Not there? A spoon nestled between the base and lid serves the same purpose.

How a Tagine Works

Once the meat and vegetables are layered into the base dish, herbs and spices can be spread over the food or made into a slurry with a small amount of water and poured in. Because this cooking method draws the natural fluids out of food, minimal added water is necessary — too much and the juices will overflow from the shallow base.

Although the characteristic cone-shaped cover may seem entirely aesthetic, it is functional. During the one- to two-hour cook time, the conical cover traps the rising steam that beads onto the slanted sides and falls back into the base dish. This condensation produces meltingly tender meats, beautifully steamed vegetables and a dense, spice-rich sauce. For the occasional check-and-stir, the cover can be lifted with ease; the bottom stays hot while the top is cool to the touch.

Slow Food is Good Food

Slow cooking in a tagine is cost effective as it renders cheaper, tougher meats flavorful and moist. Along with a variety of nutrient-rich vegetables, dried and fresh fruits, and seasoned primarily with herbs and spices, a tagine is a wholesome one-(clay) pot meal. Traditionally served with bread, couscous or rice, you can use the whole-grain varieties and add beans to make your tagine a hearty, healthy and filling meal.

Beef Tagine with Squash and Beets

Ingredients
3 Tbsp. avocado or olive oil
1 onion, cut in half and sliced
1 Tbsp. Ras el Hanout or hot sauce
1 pound cubed stewing beef
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 hot chili pepper, chopped or 1 dried cayenne pepper, crushed
1 slice candied ginger, chopped
4 medium beets, chopped
2 cups diced butternut squash
1 cup low-sodium beef broth
2 peeled oranges, cut into segments
2 cups frsh or frozen Swiss chard
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley

Directions

In the bottom of a flameproof tagine, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion and ras el hanout or hot sauce and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.
Add beef, garlic, chili pepper and ginger, stirring well to coat beef with vegetables and seasonings. Cook, stirring occasionally for 7 to 10 minutes, or until beef is browned on all sides.
Add beets, squash and broth and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Cover with tagine lid, reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes.
Add oranges and Swiss chard, replace lid, and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until beef cuts easily with a fork.
Garnish with parsley.

Nutritional Info
Serves 6
Serving size: 1 1/3 cup

Calories: 310
Total fat: 12g; Saturated fat: 2.5 g; Trans fat: 0g
Cholesterol: 70mg; Sodium: 180mg
Carbohydrate: 21g; Fiber: 4g; Sugar: 10g
Protein: 30g

Adapted from 150 Best Tagine Recipes (Robert Rose 2011) by Pat Crocker.