Film Review:

Studio: Black Valley Films with Boomdozer, Inc.

Director: Scott Hamilton Kennedy

2016

Reviewed by Carrie Dennett, MPH, RDN, CD

Description: Food Evolution offers a science-based conversation about food, exploring the polarizing debate about genetically modified organisms (GMOs), interviewing experts on both sides of the issue and delving into the grey areas where beliefs, fear and science collide.

Synopsis: While Food Evolution focuses on the debate over genetic engineering, and organic food to a lesser extent, the filmmakers broaden their focus to more complex issues surrounding nutrition and other areas of science. One of these is beliefs versus facts. Another is how fear of the unknown and anger about corporate greed can cloud objectivity. Another is erosion in trust of authority figures, whether that be scientists, medical professionals or the government.

Unlike some recent food-related “documentaries” that have a clear agenda from conception and interview only experts who support that agenda, Food Evolution’s filmmakers investigated both sides of the debate over GMOs, interviewing both scientists and activists. The film’s backstory details the filmmakers’ quest to let the science speak for itself.

Pros and Cons: While the film came out in favor of GMOs, in line with scientific consensus, the film provides balance in its presentation, minimizing the “us versus them” feel that is present in so many recent food films. In this way, it is hard to call the film “pro-GMO,” per se. The film does not portray genetic engineering as a panacea for all the world’s food issues, instead offering the view that GMOs should be evaluated on a case-by-case basis. With that in mind, the filmmakers present compelling case studies that clearly show the benefit for both economic and nutritional health of specific populations, including papaya farmers in Hawaii and banana farmers in Africa.

Through its interviews, the film demonstrates compassion for both the individuals who oppose GMOs out of genuine concern for themselves, their families or the environment, as well as the farmers whose livelihoods — which, in some cases, literally means being able to grow the food that goes directly in their children’s mouths — depend on solutions offered by GE technology.

The film also highlights the authoritative-sounding claims made by high-profile GMO opponents — who, in most cases, are not scientists or health care providers — that are not supported by science. For example, claims that eating GE papaya increases risk of infection with colds, hepatitis and HIV, or that a correlation between increases in glyphosate use and autism rates proves causation (interestingly, there is a nearly identical correlation between increase in organic food sales and increase in autism rates). The filmmakers also take a nuanced look at the issue of whether adoption of GE technology in the fields has increased pesticide use.

Bottom line: I have long been agnostic about GMOs, knowing from digging into research literature that no evidence-based case could be made for their lack of safety, yet wondering if their introduction into the food supply without full vetting by the FDA meant that we were all guinea pigs. While this film may not shift the thinking of someone who is vehemently against GMOs, its insights will be useful for fence-sitters like myself, as well as for viewers who have been “casually” anti-GMO but haven’t fully explored the foundation of their opinion. The film’s broader theme of beliefs versus science also is of great value, providing robust food for thought for both nutrition professionals and consumers of nutrition information.

Read more Food Evolution film reviews.

In the Kitchen

Hearty and robust with a natural sweetness and pleasant al dente chewiness, farro lends itself well to dishes such as pilafs, soups, salads and desserts. Farro soup with beans, chickpeas, greens and sometimes seafood is a well-known Tuscan dish. The risotto-like dish farrotto benefits from a starch found in emmer farro that is similar to the starch in Arborio rice. When ground into flour, whole farro makes a dense, flavorful bread, and semolina flour made from emmer is prized for pasta. 

Although most farro sold in the U.S. is emmer, sometimes spelt and einkorn are labeled as farro, which can make estimating cooking time a challenge. Emmer farro may be sold whole, semipearled (some bran has been removed) or pearled (all bran has been removed). Pearled and semi-pearled farro cooks in about 20 to 30 minutes, while whole farro can take 45 to 60 minutes. Presoaking whole farro shortens cooking time and produces a slightly softer, less toothsome texture. For each cup of farro, add 2 cups of water. Whole farro also can be cooked using the pasta method, using at least 4 cups of water per cup of farro. 

In the Clinic

One serving (¼ cup dry) of emmer farro has 170 calories, 6 grams of protein, 34 grams of carbohydrate and 5 grams of dietary fiber. Farro and other types of ancient wheat are higher in soluble fiber and protein than standard wheat. Compared with modern wheat, farro often has higher levels of certain antioxidants, specifically phenolics and flavonoids. Farro also has more of some trace minerals, including magnesium, selenium and zinc. 

Due to its chromosomal structure, farro tends to contain less gluten than common bread wheat, so it may be more tolerated by people with gluten sensitivity, although individuals with celiac disease will need to avoid it. 

In Quantity

Ancient wheats have attracted interest from a broad U.S. demographic, especially millennials. While grain bowls are trendy in more upscale eateries, farro also is starting to appear on mainstream fast-food menus — and trend data predict farro’s market penetration in foodservice, particularly in fine dining, is expected to increase significantly in the next four years. Pearled farro is readily available in up to three-pound bags or may be ordered as a pre-cooked grain in two-pound bags. 

In addition, a U.S. Department of Agriculture research project is exploring the milling, baking and sensory qualities of ancient wheats, as well as how to make their organic production economically viable. 

Carrie Dennett, MPH, RDN, CD, is a Seattle-based dietitian and health writer. She is the nutrition columnist for The Seattle Times and blogs at nutritionbycarrie.com.

Southwestern Farro-Chickpea Burger With Spicy Carrot Slaw and Avocado Spread

Developed by Lara Felton, MBA, RDN

Ingredients:

Burger Patty    

• [35 grams]  2 tablespoons, plus 2 teaspoons (40 milliliters) olive oil, divided 
• [130 grams]  1 cup finely diced yellow onion (about ½ of a large onion)
• [160 grams]  1 cup cooked farro
• [100 grams]  1 cup raw sunflower seeds 
• [160 grams]  1 cup drained and rinsed chickpeas 
• [50 grams]  1 large egg, lightly beaten 
• [6 grams]  1 tablespoon smoked paprika
• [4 grams]  2 teaspoons cumin
• [<1 gram]  1 teaspoon dried parsley
• [3 grams]  ½ teaspoon salt
• [<1 gram]  1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Carrot Slaw    

• [160 grams]  3 medium carrots (about 1¾ cups shredded)
• [3 grams]  1 teaspoon diced jalapeño, seeds removed
• [8 grams]  2 tablespoons minced cilantro
• [25 grams]  2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) lime juice
• [10 grams]  1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) olive oil 
• [<1 gram]  Pinch of fine-grain salt

Avocado Spread    

• [400 grams]  1 medium ripe avocado
• [15 grams]  1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) lime juice
• [3 grams]  1 medium clove garlic, minced
• [2 grams]  1 tablespoon minced cilantro
• [<1 gram]  Pinch of fine-grain salt
• [<1 gram]  Pinch of ground pepper

• [300 grams]  4 whole-wheat buns

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 375°F (191°C) and position rack in middle of oven. Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet on stove over medium heat and add 2 teaspoons olive oil. Add onion and sauté, stirring occasionally until translucent with browned edges. Remove from heat. 
2. Add onion, farro, sunflower seeds, chickpeas, egg, smoked paprika, cumin, parsley, salt and pepper into the bowl of a large food processor. Pulse burger patty mixture until it holds together, about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Coat inside of 8-by-8-inch glass baking dish with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Divide burger mixture into 4 equal-size patties, about 1-inch thick, and place in a single layer in baking dish. Cover with foil and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, flipping patties halfway through, until patties are golden brown. 
3. Grate carrots using large holes of a box grater and place in a small mixing bowl. Add jalapeño, cilantro, lime juice, olive oil and salt. Stir to combine. Let slaw marinate at room temperature while patties bake. 
4. Halve and pit avocado, then scoop flesh into a small mixing bowl. Add lime juice, garlic, cilantro, salt and pepper. Mash together with a fork until only small lumps remain. Set aside until ready to assemble burgers. 
5. Spread 2 tablespoons avocado spread on bottom half of a bun, then top with a patty, ½ cup carrot slaw and top of bun. Serves 4. 

Nutrition Per Serving:

Serving size: 1 burger with ½ cup slaw and 2 tablespoons spread (320 grams)

CALORIES 700; TOTAL FAT 36g; SAT. FAT 5g; CHOL. 43mg; SODIUM 900mg; CARB. 87g; FIBER 21g; SUGARS 13g; PROTEIN 22g; POTASSIUM N/A; PHOSPHORUS N/A
Note: Nutrition information for potassium and phosphorus in cooked farro not available. One pinch assumed to be 1/16 teaspoon.

Lara Felton, MDA, RDN, is a San Francisco Bay-Area Stone Soup blogger and co-founder of RDelish.com.

Product Reviewed:
Emile Henry Papillote Fish Steamer

Cooking foods “en papillote” is an excellent skill for any home cook. It basically means cooking a variety of foods in little pouches made of parchment paper. It’s an old technique and works great, but sometimes it can feel a bit much to fuss with sealing up your food in folded parchment paper, especially on a weeknight.

So I was excited when I pulled the Emile Henry Papillote Fish Steamer from its box. The first thing I noticed was its good looks (so sleek, so French) and I couldn’t wait to put it through its paces … on a weeknight! My first test run involved a whole descaled trout, which I surrounded with a roughly chopped fennel bulb that I marinated for about 15 minutes in a tablespoon of olive oil, the juice of one lemon and salt and pepper. I placed a few some fresh rosemary and thyme sprigs inside the fish and lemon slices, a drizzle of olive oil, salt and pepper, and a few more herb springs went on top. After 25 minutes in a 400°F oven, I had a perfectly cooked, aromatic fish.

I was so excited by the success of that test run that the next night I did a second test. When I got home from work, I preheated the oven to 400°F; tossed four thin-cut chicken breasts in the center of the pan; surrounded them with jarred marinated artichoke hearts and Kalamata olives (which are staples in my kitchen); topped the chicken with sliced lemon, salt and pepper; and tucked a few rosemary and thyme sprigs here and there. I put the whole thing in the oven for 30 minutes while I cooked some quinoa and tossed an arugula salad. It was another perfectly cooked, perfectly presented dinner with minimal effort. OK, I’m sold on this dish!

But what makes it work so well? The ridges in the bottom of Papillote Fish Steamer avoid overcooking delicate fish, but it is equally well-suited for poultry and vegetables. (It is not suited for beef or for dishes that need a long cooking time in liquid, however).

Another benefit to using this steamer instead of parchment paper for en papillote cooking is that there is no need to pre-cook vegetables with high water content. It’s also a very healthy way to preparing protein foods, since moist cooking methods such as steam produce fewer advanced glycation end products (AGEs) compared with grilling, broiling or roasting.

I envision using this beautiful steamer weekly in my kitchen, with even higher frequency during cool-weather months. This is a great tool for both experienced cooks as well as novices — especially those who aren’t confident about how to cook fish. It’s also a no-brainer for entertaining, since keeping the lid on preserves heat and flavor until you are ready to serve, which is helpful when tossing that last-minute green salad. Plus, the dish is attractive enough to go straight to the table as a serving dish.

I’m a self-taught cook, I own about 250 cookbooks and went to pastry school several years ago. That education and interest prompted a former boss — a physician — to regularly tell my patients that I was a “gourmet cook,” which is not how I would ever describe myself. Yes, I can turn out a faithful rendition of Julia Child’s Beef Bourguignon, but most days I’m about guerilla cooking: quick, easy, nutritious, tasty and with plenty of leftovers for brown-bagging, please.

I worried about what clients would expect of the RDN who’s a “gourmet cook.” Would they assume I was judging their cooking skills? Or, would they expect that I could easily teach them how to become more masterful in their own kitchens?

The truth was that while I’ve been cooking long enough to be comfortable experimenting — or even winging it — in the kitchen, I was often hesitant to explain culinary skills to patients. When a patient who has never roasted vegetables asks me how to do it, she wants a tidy explanation, not a rambling, “Well, sometimes I roast Brussels sprouts at 350 degrees, and sometimes I do it at 425, depending on if I have something else in the oven at the same time …”

Pastry school had the unexpected side benefit of boosting my cooking confidence (I realized that if I could manage to make croissants and soufflés, I could make anything I set my mind to), but that confidence wasn’t something I could transfer to my patients. So, last year, I decided to take some actual cooking classes.

I started with a few skills-based classes and found I enjoyed upping my game by getting expert instruction on braising, making stocks and broths, and building flavor. I’m especially looking forward to an upcoming class on cooking without a recipe, since that’s what I prefer to do at home. I’m also taking an online class with an emphasis on plant-based cooking.

In a video on knife skills, the narrator said that if you are what you eat, then you are what you cook — and if you don’t know how to properly use a knife, then chopping and dicing vegetables will feel like a chore, and you’ll be less likely to want to cook. Indeed.

What RDNs Should Look for in a Culinary Class

There are a few key points to consider when choosing a class. Do you prefer online or in-person? Online is more convenient, but in-person classes give you the pleasure of interaction and the ability to ask questions (of the instructor or of more-experienced students). Do you want demo-only or hands-on? An online class will be similar to a live demo class, in that any practicing will need to be done in your home kitchen, which can be an advantage if you are nervous about trying new things in front of strangers. Is the class focused on techniques that lend themselves to healthy cooking? A class that teaches the ins and outs of making rich sauces will be quite different than one teaching how to braise, stir-fry or stew.

Being comfortable in the kitchen makes it easier and more joyful to eat healthfully. When dietitians take steps to build or expand upon their personal culinary skills, they may become role models for patients. I frequently hear patients say, “You take cooking classes?” Yes! I explain that cooks at all levels can benefit from continuing education. I’ve even had patients decide to take classes themselves. Not only that, dietitians can always benefit from having solid, standardized culinary tips to convey to patients. It should be as easy for us to tell a patient how to bake a nice piece of heart-healthy salmon as it is to calculate their protein needs.

This timing is more than just a teaser to better weather to come, though — it’s purely practical. The best time to plan your vegetable garden is long before planting time, especially if you have a large garden or prefer to start heat-loving plants such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants from seed. For example, here in Seattle, I start my tomato plants in my basement — nurtured by a warming mat and grow lights — right after President’s Day.

Step 1: Evaluate Last Year

Before you start planning this year’s vegetable garden, reflect on what worked — and what didn’t — in last year’s garden, if you had one. For instance, did you plant too much of one veggie, but not enough of another? This year, play with your proportions. Did you find that you had too many salad greens that needed to be harvested all at once, then had nothing for the rest of the summer? This year, try staggered plantings of greens. Or, were you overly ambitious about how much time you would have to weed, water and wrangle tomato plants? This year, scale back a bit.

Step 2: Take Inventory

Next, find your existing seed collection. Some packets have hundreds of seeds and can easily get you through at least a few years if they’re still viable. It’s a good idea to toss any seeds that are well past their expiration date, but it’s your call whether you want to take a chance on seeds that have barely expired. Sometimes simply sowing more seeds than usual compensates for a lower germination rate.

Step 3: Browse

Now, finally, it’s time pick up your seed catalog. Before you find yourself with checkmarks on every page, be realistic. (I’ve found that, the gloomier the winter, the greater risk of my eyes being bigger than my garden plot. ) Here are three simple tips for choosing seeds wisely.

• If you are unlikely to get into the garden every day to harvest, choose slow-bolting varieties of lettuce and other greens.
• Be realistic about what you like to eat and how much you’re likely to actually eat or preserve. I’m still a little sheepish thinking about the years I’ve grown more heirloom tomatoes, beans and squash than my two-person household could eat … or even give away.
• Don’t forget about summer vacations. If your family decamps for two weeks every August, just as tomatoes and zucchini are hitting their stride, you’re going to come home to a sad mess. If that’s your schedule, consider sticking to spring and early-summer veggies such as greens and peas. Then, hit the farmers markets for items that don’t fit into your gardening timeframe.

Then, on Memorial Day weekend, I found it again while at a campground near Mount Rainier, where I had no cell phone reception and no email access. Who knew?

What was my problem? My well of inspiration was empty. I was so busy giving information to patients, clients and readers that I wasn't allowing myself to receive new information and ideas. My outputs were seriously exceeding my inputs. In other words, I wasn't refilling my well.

Allowing myself a break from my day-to-day demands and a chance to catch up on my magazine reading gave my brain a chance to breathe, expand and be creative. Has your well run dry? Here are five tips for replenishing it.

Give Yourself Space

When your days are spent juggling work and home obligations, and your focus is on slogging through your to-do list, how are you supposed to be able to think in a creative way? And, if you can't think creatively, your ideas won't flow. I get my best ideas on vacation (especially camping), on long walks and in the shower.

Look Outside for Inspiration

Ideas for blog posts can come from scientific journal articles, cookbooks, lifestyle magazines, other blogs and websites, overheard conversations and questions from patients. When you let that information flow in and have the mental space to process it, it's amazing the ideas your brain will pump out.

Don't Rely on Memory

I've had great blog post ideas while with a patient or client, in the middle of watching a movie, or while shamelessly eavesdropping at the grocery store. No matter where it is, I always jot it down ASAP. If not, it will be going, going, gone. When taking a not, try to be specific. Don't write, "bananas" — instead, write, "Bananas as a source of potassium + my super-healthy whole-grain banana bread recipe."

Get It on the Books

Once you have a list of ideas or a "tickler" file full of magazine clippings, don't stop there! Write and schedule those posts in advance. Otherwise, your new trove of ideas will likely just gather dust.

Dip into Your Files

Was your brainstorm so bountiful that you have ideas for months? Treat your list and clippings file as a living document. Refer to it, edit it and add to it regularly and let your regained writing mojo continue to inspire your writing.

The truth is that there is no one single way to eat for good health. As a species, humans are quite similar on a genetic level, yet as individual specimens we can be amazingly diverse. That’s why your cousin may feel great on a vegan diet while your coworker thrives on a paleo diet. Ironically, these two dietary patterns appear to be polar opposites: The paleo diet includes meat but excludes grains and legumes, while the vegan diet includes grains and legumes but excludes meat and other animal products.

How can both diets work? When planned well, each diet includes lots of vegetables and minimizes highly processed foods. Those are the common denominators of a healthy diet. From there, you can fill in the blanks to suit your taste buds and unique physiological needs by adding your choice of quality fats (nuts, seeds, avocados, olive oil, fatty fish) carbohydrates (whole grains, fruit, starchy root vegetables) and plant- or animal-based protein (legumes, soy, fish, sustainably raised meat, poultry, eggs, dairy).

The Nutritional Big Picture

It takes a varied diet to get the vitamins, minerals, fiber and phytonutrients required for optimal health, but there are many combinations of foods that can get you to that goal. While everyone needs carbohydrates, fat and protein, there is no “magic” ratio that you should be striving for.

Beware the trap of focusing on what you DON’T eat (like meat or grains), instead of being thoughtful about what you DO eat. Failing to see the big nutritional picture can easily lead to a “healthy diet” that isn’t so healthy. For example, a paleo diet that includes lots of processed meats, paleo cookies and coconut milk ice cream with very few vegetables isn’t terribly healthy. Neither is a vegan diet that is low on veggies, high on white bread, pasta, vegan cookies and soy ice cream.

Taken to extremes, fixating on avoiding meat, sugar or gluten can make you dogmatic about your diet and turn your dietary choices into a core element of your identity. “You are what you eat” shouldn’t be taken literally.

An Intuitive Approach

It’s wonderful that there are many ways to eat healthfully and well, but it means that to find your optimal diet, you need to trust your body to tell you what optimal looks like. For many of us, it can be hard to relearn this intuitive approach, which we all had when we were small children!

To start, let yourself choose from quality, nutrient-rich foods, and pay attention to how you feel. Are you energized for hours when you eat oatmeal for breakfast, or do you need more protein from, say, eggs or Greek yogurt? Do you run best on three square meals a day, three meals plus snacks, or six mini-meals? Do you feel energized or tired after eating meat? Are there certain “healthy” foods that make you feel bloated? Then they probably aren’t healthy foods for you.

While it may feel easier to simply adopt a ready-made dietary plan, it’s rarely sustainable or satisfying. Investing in yourself by learning how to forge your own personal, intuitive path can help you enjoy the food you eat along with improved health and wellness for the rest of your life. It’s about finding that sweet spot between eating to live and living to eat!