My Global Table – Food & Nutrition Magazine https://foodandnutrition.org Award-winning magazine published by the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics Sun, 09 Oct 2022 17:02:27 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://foodandnutrition.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/cropped-Favicon-32x32.png My Global Table – Food & Nutrition Magazine https://foodandnutrition.org 32 32 My Global Table: Indonesia https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/my-global-table-indonesia/ Mon, 21 Dec 2020 18:23:23 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=27776 ]]> As the daughter of immigrants from Indonesia and the Philippines, my childhood memories of family meals are infused with the aromas and flavors of southeast Asia: coconut-based curry stews, lemongrass, galangal (a citrusy, peppery relative of ginger), turmeric, ginger, shallots, garlic, chilis, tamarind, jeruk purut (Makrut lime leaf), citrus, terasi (fermented shrimp paste), kecap manis (sweet soy sauce), kecap asin (salty soy sauce), palm sugar, pandan leaves (sweet-smelling tropical plant), cumin, nutmeg, cloves and coriander. Growing up in Houston, I spent a lot of time with my paternal grandparents, who were born in the small fishing village of Tegal in central Java. They emigrated to the United States after my grandfather retired from a career in journalism to help care for me while my parents worked full-time.

My brother, who later became a chef, and I often saw our grandmother cooking. Kneeling on the kitchen floor, she used traditional stone tools — the cobek (pestle) and ulek-ulek (mortar) — to prepare spice pastes and sauces. For example, she ground pungent terasi (fermented shrimp paste) with cabe rawit (bird’s eye chili), red bell pepper, salt, tamarind, peanuts and water into a mixture to season rujak ulek, a salad made of sliced jicama and cucumber.

The hot and humid subtropical U.S. Gulf Coast climate is well-suited for growing many plant foods that my parents grew up eating. I remember wandering into our backyard and smelling citrusy notes of sereh (lemongrass), poking at bitter melons that resembled bumpy green corn cobs and marveling at canoe paddle-sized leaves on tall banana trees. Even though the trees never produced fruit, we used the banana leaves to wrap lemper (plump, steamed oblong bundles of rice with curried chicken in the center).

Indonesia is an archipelago of more than 17,000 islands, of which about 6,000 are inhabited by many ethnic groups, with the Pacific Ocean to the northeast, the South China Sea to the northwest and the Indian Ocean to the south. A true fusion of flavors, Indonesian cuisine has many regional variations and culinary influences of Chinese, Indian, Arab and European traders and settlers. The Chinese introduced soy sauce, tofu, cabbage and bean sprouts, as well as the wok and stir-frying. The Indians brought curried meats and traditional methods of using cloves and nutmeg. The Arabic influence of the kebab is evident in classic Indonesian satay (marinated and grilled meat on wooden skewers), though the addition of peanut sauce as a condiment originated in Java.

Starting in the 1500s, the Portuguese, Spanish, British and then Dutch sought to control the region for its valuable spices, such as nutmeg and cloves. The Dutch occupied the country for 300 years; the rijsttafel (“rice table,” an array of dishes on the table with rice at the center) is a colonial tradition that is well-known in Indonesia and Europe.

Cooking Indonesian food means using fresh, local ingredients and combining intensely flavored elements into a harmonious, rich, multidimensional experience, while customizing dishes according to the region. For example, Javanese cuisine tends to be sweeter, due to the local production of sugar.

All Indonesian meals include warm, steamed rice; a variety of flavorful dishes; krupuk (crunchy deep-fried tapioca or prawn crackers); and at least one kind of spicy, chili-based sambal as a condiment. Examples of Indonesian dishes include rendang (stewed, curried beef with spices), mie goreng (fried noodles with shallots, garlic, sweet soy sauce, meat and vegetables), nasi goreng (fried rice), satay, besenggek (meat stewed in coconut milk, turmeric, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, coriander and galangal), and gado gado (vegetable salad served with peanut sauce).

Religion also influences cuisine. According to 2010 census data, 87 percent of Indonesians identify as Muslim, nearly 10 percent identify as Christian and almost 2 percent identify as Hindu. Because Muslims do not eat pork, satay is usually made with chicken or beef in predominantly Islamic regions. In Bali, which is mainly Hindu, beef is not eaten, so dishes often use pork.

Common cooking methods include stewing, steaming, grilling, stir-frying, frying and roasting. To make the base of a stew or an element for a dish or sauce, Indonesians grind a variety of aromatics, herbs and spices into an intensely flavored paste that is fried in oil. Using a food processor is an acceptable shortcut to grinding spices into a paste by hand with the traditional stone mortar and pestle. Grapeseed, canola, avocado and coconut oils are frequently used. While there is a fondness for fried, crunchy textures and sweets, many classic Indonesian dishes are steamed and stewed.

Menus feature chicken, beef, eggs (seasoned boiled eggs are popular), pork, duck, fish, shellfish, tofu and tempeh. Coconut milk, not cow’s milk, predominates in both savory dishes and desserts. Vegetables such as shredded cabbage, sliced carrots, diced potatoes and green beans often are cooked lightly and eaten with a sauce. Some exceptions are cucumbers and bean sprouts, which are usually eaten raw. Classic Indonesian desserts often consist of coconut milk, rice flour, glutinous (sticky) rice and palm sugar. Fresh tropical fruits such as mango, durian, jackfruit, rambutan, lychee, longan and mangosteen serve as desserts and snacks. Traditionally, alcoholic beverages are rarely served. Jasmine tea, either hot or iced, is usually sweetened with sugar. Coffee is a popular beverage, and Indonesia is the fourth-largest producer in the world.

In America, many health food stores, ethnic markets and Asian food aisles of mainstream grocery stores sell ingredients for cooking Indonesian food. Commercially prepared products that make modern Indonesian cooking more convenient include dehydrated blocks of powdered peanut sauce that need only be mixed with hot water; packets of spices, aromatics, herbs and oil for rendang, rawon (beef soup), nasi goreng and soto ayam (spicy chicken soup); ready-to-eat krupuk sold in airtight bags; refrigerated lemongrass paste in a tube; and powdered galangal and turmeric. Condiments such as sambal oelek (chili-based paste), fried shallots, fried onions and fried anchovies also can be purchased. Due to similarities to other Southeast Asian cuisines, Indonesian flavors can be approximated by using more easily sourced ingredients, such as Thai fish sauce in place of terasi, lime juice for tamarind water and macadamia nuts instead of kemiri (candlenuts).

As my grandparents would say, selamat makan — enjoy your meal!

References

Facts & Figures. Embassy of the Republic of Indonesia website. Accessed December 16, 2020.
Traditional Balinese Coconut Oil. Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity website. Accessed December 16, 2020.
Wijaya S. Indonesian food culture mapping: a starter contribution to promote Indonesian culinary tourism. J. Ethn. Food 2019;6,9.
World Coffee Production. International Coffee Organization website. Updated November 2020. Accessed December 16, 2020.

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Tempeh with Vegetables and Peanut Sauce https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/tempeh-with-vegetables-and-peanut-sauce/ Mon, 21 Dec 2020 18:22:34 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=27778 ]]> A vegan adaptation of gado-gado, a popular Indonesian dish, features a creamy peanut dressing, tempeh and a colorful array of cooked and fresh vegetables.

SERVINGS: 4
SERVING SIZE: 1½ cups vegetables and tempeh plus ⅓ cup sauce (305 grams)
PREP TIME: 30 minutes
COOKING TIME: 20 minutes

Ingredients

  • ½ cup creamy peanut butter
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) Sriracha sauce
  • 1 tablespoon (16 milliliters) maple syrup
  • ¼ cup (59 milliliters) lite canned coconut milk
  • 2 tablespoons (28 milliliters) reduced sodium soy sauce
  • 2 teaspoons (10 milliliters) lime juice
  • 1 medium white potato, chopped
  • 1¼ cup green beans
  • 1 bunch spinach leaves
  • 8 ounces tempeh
  • 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) canola oil
  • 1 medium carrot, peeled and julienned
  • 3 radishes, thinly sliced
  • ¼ medium English cucumber, sliced
  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Instructions

  1. Add peanut butter, garlic, Sriracha, maple syrup, coconut milk, soy sauce, lime juice and 2 tablespoons water to a small mixing bowl and whisk to combine. If desired, add more water 1 tablespoon at a time to thin the consistency.
  2. In a medium saucepan, bring 8 cups of water to a boil. Add potatoes to boiling water and cook until fork-tender, about 10 minutes.
  3. Using a slotted spoon, transfer potatoes to a colander to remove excess water and then set aside.
  4. To the cooking water, add green beans and boil 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove beans from the water and set aside.
  5. Add spinach to cooking water and cook until wilted, about 1 to 3 minutes. Drain into colander and set aside.
  6. Cut tempeh into 8 squares, then cut each square diagonally into a triangle. Turn each triangle on its side and slice in half to make 2 thinner triangle pieces.
  7. To a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, add canola oil. Add tempeh and cook 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown. Flip each piece and cook another 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown.
  8. Arrange tempeh, cooked vegetables and fresh carrots, radishes and cucumber on a serving platter, drizzle with peanut sauce and garnish with cilantro. To serve, evenly distribute to four bowls or plates.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 448 calories, 28g total fat, 6g saturated fat, 0mg cholesterol, 535mg sodium, 35g carbohydrate, 6g fiber, 10g sugar, 23g protein, NA potassium, NA phosphorus

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Marinated Shrimp https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/marinated-shrimp/ Mon, 21 Dec 2020 18:22:15 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=27780 ]]> This take on the Indonesian dish udang bakar incorporates fish sauce in place of shrimp paste and colossal shrimp in place of prawns, which can be grilled, baked or sautéed.

SERVINGS: 4
SERVING SIZE: 5 shrimp (90 grams)
PREP TIME: 2 hours 10 minutes
COOKING TIME: 8 minutes

Ingredients

  • 20 raw fresh or frozen colossal shrimp, peeled and deveined, tail on
  • 2 tablespoons (33 milliliters) reduced sodium soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon (17 milliliters) fish sauce
  • 2 tablespoons (25 milliliters) lime juice
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon (23 milliliters) chili paste
  • 1 tablespoon brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon (11 milliliters) olive oil
  • Cooking spray
  • 6 fresh basil leaves, chopped (optional)

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 400°F (204°C). If using frozen shrimp, thaw per package instructions and set aside.
  2. In a medium bowl, combine soy sauce, fish sauce, lime juice, garlic, chili paste, brown sugar and olive oil. Whisk to combine. Remove 1 tablespoon of marinade and set aside.
  3. Add shrimp to bowl and stir to coat. Cover with lid or plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.
  4. Lightly coat a baking sheet with cooking spray and place shrimp evenly across. Bake for 5 to 6 minutes until shrimp is opaque and white or pearly, or to an internal temperature of 145°F (63°C).
  5. Toss cooked shrimp with reserved sauce and fresh basil, if desired. Serve warm.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 118 calories, 1g total fat, 0g saturated fat, 163mg cholesterol, 649mg sodium, 0g carbohydrate, 0g fiber, 5g sugar, 21g protein, NA potassium, NA phosphorus

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Chicken Stewed in Coconut Sauce https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/chicken-stewed-in-coconut-sauce/ Mon, 21 Dec 2020 18:20:26 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=27782 ]]> Based on the traditional Indonesian dish ayam panggang bumbu besengek, this modified version uses a few different spices and bite-sized pieces of boneless skinless chicken breast to reduce cooking time.

SERVINGS: 4
SERVING SIZE: ¾ cup chicken, ¾ cup rice, scallions and nuts garnish (344 grams)
PREP TIME: 10 minutes
COOKING TIME: 20 minutes

Ingredients

  • 1 cup long-grain white rice
  • 2 tablespoons (24 milliliters) canola oil, divided
  • 1 pound boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into bite-sized pieces
  • 2 shallots, minced
  • 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, grated
  • 1 teaspoon coriander, ground
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric
  • 1 teaspoon chili powder
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ⅛ teaspoon black pepper
  • 2 teaspoons lemongrass paste
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1¾ cups (400 milliliters) lite coconut milk
  • 1 scallion, thinly sliced
  • ¼ cup macadamia nuts, chopped

Instructions

  1. Cook rice per package instructions.
  2. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon canola oil and chicken.
  3. Cook chicken on one side for 4 to 5 minutes, then turn each piece over and cook another 4 minutes until completely cooked to an internal temperature of 165°F (74°C).
  4. Turn heat to medium-low and transfer chicken to a plate.
  5. In the same skillet, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of canola oil. Add shallots, ginger, coriander, turmeric, chili powder, salt, black pepper, lemongrass paste and garlic and stir for 1 to 2 minutes, just enough to sauté the garlic without burning it.
  6. Add coconut milk and bring to a slow simmer. Add chicken and simmer for 5 minutes.
  7. To serve, scoop ¾ cup rice and ¾ cup chicken mixture onto a plate or bowl. Divide green onions and macadamia nuts evenly into 4 portions to garnish. Serve warm.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 471 calories, 19g total fat, 5g saturated fat, 65mg cholesterol, 291mg sodium, 46g carbohydrate, 2g fiber, 1g sugar, 29g protein, NA potassium, NA phosphorus

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Chicken and Fish Soup with Vegetables https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/chicken-and-fish-soup-with-vegetables/ Fri, 11 Sep 2020 20:54:08 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=26924 ]]> Chicken and smoked mackerel replace beef and koobi, a popular Ghanaian fish, in this version of light soup.

SERVINGS: 5
SERVING SIZE: 1⅔ cup (404 grams)
PREP TIME: 20 minutes
COOKING TIME: 35 minutes

Ingredients

  • 3 3-ounce trimmed, boneless, skinless chicken thighs
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1 large plum tomato
  • 2-inch piece peeled ginger root, cut in half lengthwise
  • ¼ small purple eggplant, peeled
  • ¼ small onion
  • ½ serrano chili pepper
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 teaspoon shrimp powder
  • 6 ounces smoked mackerel, diced (optional skin removed)
  • 1⅓ cup frozen cut okra
  • ⅔ cup fresh basil, chopped

Instructions

  1. In a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, add 4 cups water, chicken, salt, tomato, ginger, eggplant, onion and serrano and cover with lid.
  2. Maintain a rapid simmer and cook 15 minutes or until eggplant is knife-tender and chicken is cooked to a minimum internal temperature of 165°F (74°C).
  3. Turn off heat and use tongs to remove chicken and place on a cutting board to cool. Using tongs, place vegetables in a blender with tomato paste, shrimp powder and 2 cups water. Blend until smooth.
  4. Dice chicken and add to saucepan with blended vegetables, smoked mackerel and okra. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook 10 to 15 minutes or until hot. Add most of the basil, keeping some out for garnish.

Cooking note: For a spicier flavor, substitute habanero pepper in place of serrano chili pepper. Dark miso can be used in place of shrimp powder.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 198 calories, 11g total fat, 3g saturated fat, 69mg cholesterol, 554mg sodium, 7g carbohydrate, 2g fiber, 3g sugar, 18g protein, NA potassium, NA phosphorus

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My Global Table: Ghana https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/my-global-table-ghana/ Fri, 11 Sep 2020 20:54:05 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=26918 ]]> I grew up in Ghana surrounded by crops, livestock and food. My dad, the son of peasant farmers, used every available space on his 2-acre plot of land on the outskirts of Central Accra to grow food and rear livestock. We grew corn, yams, plantains, leafy green vegetables, tomatoes and okra; we also had coconuts, oranges, black tamarind, tangerines, lime, avocado and guavas. We reared pigs, goats, ducks, free-range chicken as well as some raised in a hen coop, and even had a litter of about 16 dogs.

I recall being involved with livestock feeding from a very early age. Being a large family, we mostly ate what we grew and raised. Ours was the typical Ghanaian home of that era, where in addition to the nuclear family (my parents and five children), there were aunties, uncles, cousins, grandparents and a host of others living in the same household.

During festive seasons like Christmas and Easter, we gave away lots of food as gifts to less fortunate families. We hardly sold any of our produce for extra money, as both parents were gainfully employed: my dad a banker and my mum a high school teacher. Like most traditional Ghanaian meals, ours were planned around starchy staples such as cereals, roots and tubers, with vegetable sauces, soups and gravies as accompaniments.

Meals and Eating Patterns
Ghanaians typically consume three meals a day, with each served as a one-course meal. A recent development in the Ghanaian meal pattern is the trend of multiplecourse meals with buffet-style dining during festive occasions such as baby christening events, weddings (usually at a chapel with a minister) and traditional marriages at home with elders in attendance to perform customary rites.

Breakfast has traditionally consisted of cereal (mainly maize and millet), porridges and teas or cocoa beverages. Different types of breads are a popular breakfast accompaniment in most Ghanaian homes, regardless of socioeconomic class. Milk, margarine, butter, fried eggs, salads and cheese also may be accompaniments, but not all households are able to afford them. Some people also prefer heavier meals such as waakye (rice and beans) or kenkey (thick paste made of fermented milled maize) accompanied by tomato gravies and spicy sauces, plus an assortment of animal-source proteins such as eggs and meat for breakfast.

Breakfast meals are prepared at home or purchased from food vendors, which typically are table-top street merchants positioned at vantage points such as bus stops, lorry stations and near schools throughout cities and peri-urban communities. An emerging trend in most urban areas is commercially produced and packaged breakfast foods for sale. These packaged foods, such as sandwiches, pancakes and doughnuts, are usually more expensive and likely to be purchased by the middle class.

Lunchtime in Ghana is very important. People of all ages take a break from work, school and other activities to savor local Ghanaian dishes, mostly eaten outside the home. A lunch time meal in some urban areas can easily pack several hundreds to even a thousand or more calories. Often referred to as heavier foods, some common lunch meals include ampesi (boiled yam or plantain) with vegetable stew, fufu (pounded boiled cassava and plantain) with different types of soups, and all sorts of rice meals with sauces and gravies.

Suppertime meals are similar to lunch and, depending on the household, may be the only opportunity a family has to sit and eat together. In some rural homes, it is common for several family members to eat from the same pot.

Spicy and Flavorful
If there were a single phrase to describe Ghanaian foods, it would be “spicy and flavorful.” Nearly all Ghanaian foods, from porridges to local beverages to sauces and soups, are fiery and zesty in taste. Peppers of all kinds, ginger, cloves, garlic, aniseed, rosemary and mint are common. Chefs and food vendors ensure that visitors are left with a lasting taste of Ghana on their taste buds, a taste that is undoubtedly an essential element of the proverbial Ghanaian hospitality.

Western Influences and the Role of Dietitians
Like most developing countries in Sub-Saharan Africa, Ghana is going through an economic and nutrition transition characterized by an increase in the prevalence of obesity and obesity-related illness &emdash; such as cardiovascular disease, Type 2 diabetes mellitus, hypertension and some forms of cancers &emdash; among adults, especially urban dwellers. This could be attributed to a myriad of factors including globalization, migration and an influx of inexpensive foods that are energy-dense and low in nutrients.

Significant among factors related to globalization is the emergence of several multinational fast-food chains, which are quickly becoming a common sight in Accra and other big cities such as Kumasi and Takoradi. This is leading to a gradual shift from traditional Ghanaian foods to energy-dense foods that are low in nutrients.

Ghanaian health professionals, particularly dietitians, have a critical role in planning and implementing effective nutrition education programs to help control the upsurge of non-communicable diseases. In 2004, the University of Ghana was the first institution to start training dietitians; now, there are four institutions training dietitians at the undergraduate and graduate levels. More than 150 trained dietitians work in the private and public sectors, where they promote healthy eating with a focus on choosing locally available foods and education on healthier food preparation methods.

Try these recipes inspired by traditional Ghanaian dishes: Millet Porridge with Black-Eyed Pea Patties; Spicy Collard Green Sauce with Herring; and Chicken and Fish Soup with Vegetables

Reference

Ofori-Asenso R, Agyeman AA, Laar A, Boateng D. Overweight and obesity epidemic in Ghana-a systematic review and meta-analysis. BMC Public Health. 2016;16(1):1239. Published December 9, 2016. doi:10.1186/s12889-016-3901-4.

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Spicy Collard Green Sauce with Herring https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/spicy-collard-green-sauce-with-herring/ Fri, 11 Sep 2020 20:54:01 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=26922 ]]> Collard greens and olive oil replace fresh taro leaves and palm oil, respectively, in this take on abom, a traditional Ghanaian sauce commonly served over boiled yams or plantains.

SERVINGS: 3
SERVING SIZE: ½ cup sauce with ⅓ cup sautéed onions and herring (143 grams)
PREP TIME: 10 minutes
COOKING TIME: 25 minutes

Ingredients

  • 4 cups fresh collard greens, stems removed and chopped
  • 2 teaspoons habanero pepper, minced
  • ¾ cup yellow onion, chopped
  • 2 teaspoons fresh ginger root, peeled and minced
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 2 sweet vine tomatoes
  • 1 tablespoon (15 milliliters) olive oil
  • ½ cup yellow onion, sliced
  • 3 ounces canned low-sodium smoked herring

Optional:

  • ⅛ teaspoon salt
  • 2 plantains, washed and skins removed

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F (176°C).
  2. In a large skillet over medium heat, add collard greens, habanero pepper, onion, ginger, salt and 1 cup water.
  3. Cook 10 to 12 minutes until collard greens are tender and onions are translucent. Remove skillet from heat and set aside.
  4. Cut tomatoes into about 12 to 14 wedges and place on baking sheet. Bake for 8 minutes, or until skins are soft and slightly roasted.
  5. To a food processor, add collard green mixture and tomatoes. Pulse until all ingredients are smooth and blended. Transfer to bowl and set aside.
  6. Set the large skillet over medium high heat and add olive oil, then sliced onions and herring. Sauté about 3 minutes and set aside.
  7. Optional: Cut plantains in half lengthwise. Fill medium-sized pot with 8 cups water. Add salt and bring to boil. Add plantains and cook 15 minutes or until easily pierced with a fork.
  8. To serve, divide plantains into three bowls and top each serving with ½ cup collard green sauce and ⅓ cup sautéed onions and herring.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 118 calories, 8g total fat, 1g saturated fat, 22mg cholesterol, 353mg sodium, 7g carbohydrate, 2g fiber, 3g sugar, 6g protein, NA potassium, NA phosphorus

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Millet Porridge with Black-Eyed Pea Patties https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/millet-porridge-with-black-eyed-pea-patties/ Fri, 11 Sep 2020 20:53:50 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=26920 ]]> Black-eyed peas and spices are blended into patties, pan-fried and served with millet porridge in this adaptation of Ghana’s traditional dishes koose and kooko.

SERVINGS: 6
SERVING SIZE: 2 patties with ½ cup porridge (294 grams)
PREP TIME: 20 minutes, plus overnight soaking
COOKING TIME: 30 minutes

Ingredients

  • 1 cup millet
  • 2 cups canned black-eyed peas, drained and rinsed
  • ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • ⅓ cup onion, chopped
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • ¾ cup cabbage, thinly sliced
  • 3 tablespoons (42 milliliters) vegetable or canola oil, divided
  • 3 1-inch pieces fresh ginger, peeled
  • 1 teaspoon jalapeño, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • ½ teaspoon ground cloves

Instructions

  1. Place millet in a bowl, cover with water and soak overnight in refrigerator.
  2. In a blender or food processor, add black-eyed peas, red pepper flakes, onion, egg and salt and process until smooth. Pour into a bowl, add cabbage and mix well.
  3. To a large skillet over medium-high heat, add 1 tablespoon oil. Use a ¼-cup measuring cup to scoop and pour batter into skillet, making 4 patties.
  4. Cook 3 minutes, then flip and cook 3 minutes or until golden brown.
  5. Remove patties from pan and place on a paper towel-lined plate; cover with foil to keep warm. Add 1 tablespoon oil to skillet and repeat until batter is gone, making 12 patties.
  6. Drain and rinse millet in a sieve.
  7. In a blender add millet, 1 cup water, ginger, jalapeño, black peppercorns and ground cloves. Process until smooth.
  8. Strain mixture into a bowl through a sieve.
  9. In a small pot, bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add millet mixture, lower to simmer and whisk constantly for 5 minutes to prevent lumps from forming.
  10. Serve ½ cup porridge with 2 black-eyed pea patties.

Cooking note: Use habanero or spicier pepper in place of jalapeño, if preferred. Millet porridge may thicken as it rests. To thin out, add water 1 tablespoon at a time and whisk to desired consistency.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 253 calories, 10g total fat, 1g saturated fat, 31mg cholesterol, 576mg sodium, 34g carbohydrate, 5g fiber, 1g sugar, 8g protein, 230mg potassium, 158mg phosphorus

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My Global Table: Turkey https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/geography-and-the-vast-migration-of-turks-from-central-asia-to-europe-over-centuries-have-shaped-turkish-gastronomy/ Tue, 07 Jul 2020 15:21:00 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=26506 ]]> Turkey’s unique location places it in Europe, the Eastern Mediterranean, the Middle East, the Balkan Peninsula and the Caucasus. Geography and the vast migration of Turks from Central Asia to Europe over centuries have shaped Turkish gastronomy.

Because it features a mixture of foods from various cultures and geographical regions, Turkish cuisine is not easy to define. For example, some dishes overlap with other cultures’, which can trigger disagreement over the origin of a specific dish.

Turkey is divided into seven regions, and each region has a different food culture. On the Mediterranean and Aegean coasts, common breakfast foods include feta cheese, olives, eggs, tomatoes, cucumbers, seasonal herbs, olive oil and homemade jam served with Turkish tea. When I lived in the United States, sweet breakfast foods such as cereal and pancakes were foreign to me. Although these foods are sold at Turkish supermarkets, many people prefer the traditional breakfast of their region.

Cuisines of the Mediterranean and Aegean coasts primarily consist of vegetables cooked with olive oil, seasonal seafood and salads. People do not eat much red meat. When cooking vegetables with olive oil and not meat, it is traditional to add a cube of sugar and serve the dish cold. If the vegetables are cooked with meat, the dish is served warm.

In the eastern Anatolian region, typical dishes are cooked with meat, bulgur, herbs and spices — mainly hot ones including maraş and isot chilli flakes. If I meet someone from Turkey who loves spicy food, I immediately ask if they are from the east. Plain yogurt is served at every meal, except with fish. Soup is important in Turkish cuisine. There are summer and winter soups that are served before the main dish and are eaten mostly with bread.

Bread and either white rice or bulgur, depending on the region, are important to Turkish people. It is typical to serve bread at each meal and rice at lunch and dinner. There is a common saying: “You cannot feel full without eating bread.” Mothers tell their children they will have as many kids as the grains of rice they leave on their plates. As a child, I frequently woke to the smell of fresh bread my father bought from the bakery. We would spread butter and honey on it. However, in recent years as the obesity rate has increased in our country, Turkish people have started to cut down on bread and rice.

Fish is a major part of Turkish cuisine, since the country is surrounded by the Black Sea to the north, the Mediterranean to the south and the Aegean to the west. The Black Sea region is famous for its hamsi, a type of anchovy. While there are many ways to cook hamsi, it is generally served fried with a coating of corn flour or cooked with rice in the oven. My father, who is from Trabzon in the Black Sea region, frequently bought hamsi on his way home from work. In their first years of marriage, my mother, who is from Kayseri in the Anatolian part of Turkey, refused to clean the fish. But now, after more than 50 years of marriage, she can do it in her sleep.

During the winter, we eat hamsi at least once a week. It is a small fish that can be eaten whole, as its bones are crunchy and safe to eat. Other than hamsi, most of our seasonal fish is seasoned with salt and lemon and grilled.

After eating fish, dessert is a must. Helva, made with either semolina or flour, is a typical dessert. Baklava, quince and pumpkin dessert also are popular.

For snacks, Turkish people love dried figs and apricots paired with nuts. It is common to see locals carrying them in their handbags or storing them in their cars. Turkey is the world’s biggest producer of hazelnuts, cherries, figs and apricots. While hazelnuts are nutritious and delicious, they are expensive.

Tea, coffee and ayran (a drink made of water, yogurt and some salt) are some of Turkey’s national beverages. Tea is made in a special teapot with two layers: the top kettle holds the black tea granules and boiled water, and the bottom kettle contains plain boiled water. To serve, pour tea from the upper kettle and, depending on how strong you want your tea, then add more boiled water. Sweetening tea and coffee has become less popular, as people are watching their sugar consumption. You can have Turkish coffee plain (without sugar), medium (with a little sugar) or with as much sugar as desired. It is common to add fresh mint or other herbs to ayran.

Family is the main focus of life in Turkey, and family members are expected to sit together for meals. This usually extends to close relatives, friends and neighbors. However, because of the the current COVID-19 global pandemic, meals stay within each household. Since coffee is an important part of Turkish culture and a way of socializing, especially after meals, many people sit on their balcony or in their garden and chat with neighbors as they drink coffee.

A Turkish proverb says “The heart desires neither coffee nor coffee house. The heart desires conversation; coffee is but an excuse.” Thus, while we may need to stay physically distant during the pandemic, we are still close in our hearts as a culture.

References

Turkey is a World Leader in Production and Export of Four Agricultural Products. Republic of Turkey Agriculture and Forest Ministry website. Published August 18, 2019. Accessed June 30, 2020.

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Braised Okra with Lamb https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/braised-okra-with-lamb/ Tue, 07 Jul 2020 15:19:41 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=26512 ]]> This stew is inspired by the Turkish dish, Kuzu etli bamya, with okra and lamb in a spiced and herbed tomato broth.

SERVINGS: 6
SERVING SIZE: 1 cup stew and ⅓ cup rice (305 grams)
PREP TIME: 20 minutes
COOKING TIME: 2 hours 15 minutes

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) olive oil
  • ½ pound lamb or beef shoulder, trimmed of fat, cubed and patted dry
  • 12 ounces frozen sliced okra
  • 3 cups (about 2 medium) red bell pepper, diced
  • 1½ cups (about 1 small) yellow onion, diced
  • 2 tablespoons no-salt-added tomato paste
  • 1 tablespoon (about 3 cloves) garlic, minced
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 2 teaspoons ground coriander
  • 1½ teaspoons ground cumin
  • ½ teaspoon ground black pepper
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper (optional)
  • 1 15-ounce (470 milliliters) can no-salt-added crushed tomatoes
  • 2 cups (500 milliliters) unsalted beef stock
  • 1 teaspoon lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • ½ teaspoon granulated sugar
  • ½ cup flat-leaf Italian parsley or cilantro, chopped
  • 2 cups cooked brown rice

Instructions

  1. To a Dutch oven or braising pan at medium-high heat, add olive oil.
  2. Add lamb or beef and spread out in a single layer. Cook 1 to 2 minutes per side until lightly browned. Remove from pan and set aside in foil.
  3. Add okra to same pot and sauté 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally until lightly browned on all sides.
  4. Reduce to medium heat and add pepper and onion.
  5. Sauté 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft and lightly browned on edges.
  6. Stir in tomato paste, garlic, salt, coriander, cumin, black pepper and cayenne pepper and sauté 30 to 60 seconds, stirring constantly, until fragrant.
  7. Add meat back to pot with crushed tomatoes and stock and bring to low simmer. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally for 2 hours or until lamb or beef is fork tender and a minimum internal temperature of 145°F (63°C) is reached.
  8. Stir in lemon zest and juice, sugar and half the parsley or cilantro.
  9. Serve over brown rice and top with remaining parsley or cilantro.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 247 calories, 10g total fat, 3g saturated fat, 25mg cholesterol, 584mg sodium, 29g carbohydrate, 6g fiber, 9g sugar, 12g protein, N/A potassium, N/A phosphorus

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Roasted Artichokes with Olive Oil and Lemon https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/roasted-artichokes-with-olive-oil/ Tue, 07 Jul 2020 15:19:32 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=26511 ]]> Classic flavors of the Turkish dish Zeytinyağlı enginar come together quickly with canned artichokes, frozen peas and quick roasting rather than boiling on the stovetop.

SERVINGS: 6
SERVING SIZE: 3 to 4 artichokes plus ½ cup vegetables (157 grams)
PREP TIME: 15 minutes
COOKING TIME: 20 minutes

Ingredients

  • 2 14-ounce cans artichokes in water, drained and rinsed
  • 1 cup gold potatoes, diced ¼-inch thick
  • 1 cup carrots, diced ¼-inch thick
  • ½ cup yellow onion, diced ¼-inch thick
  • 2 tablespoons (25 milliliters) canola oil
  • 1 tablespoon lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons (25 milliliters) lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons (25 milliliters) extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
  • ¼ teaspoon black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons fresh chopped dill
  • 1 cup frozen peas, thawed

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 425°F (218°C).
  2. Line baking sheet with parchment paper. Add artichokes, potatoes, carrots and onions to baking sheet and drizzle with canola oil.
  3. Toss to coat and spread in an even layer.
  4. Roast in oven 20 minutes or until potatoes are soft.
  5. In a large bowl, whisk together lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil, mustard, salt, pepper and dill.
  6. Add roasted vegetables and thawed peas and toss to coat.
  7. Serve warm or chilled.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 167 calories, 9g total fat, 1g saturated fat, 0mg cholesterol, 202mg sodium, 20g carbohydrate, 7g fiber, 4g sugar, 5g protein, N/A potassium, N/A phosphorus

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Squash Dessert https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/squash-dessert/ Tue, 07 Jul 2020 15:19:02 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=26513 ]]> In a modified version of Kabak Tatlısı, roasted butternut squash replaces boiled pumpkin, and honey and cinnamon are used in place of sugar.

SERVINGS: 6
SERVING SIZE: 1 cup squash, ½ tablespoon honey, ½ tablespoon walnuts, ½ tablespoon tahini (118 grams)
PREP TIME: 5 minutes
COOKING TIME: 30 minutes

Ingredients

  • 1 whole butternut squash, peeled and seeded
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 3 tablespoons tahini
  • 3 tablespoons (25 milliliters) honey
  • 3 tablespoons walnuts, chopped

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 400°F (204°C).
  2. Cut squash base into thirds and cut each third in half to make ½-inch thick pieces that are roughly 1-inchby-1-inch.
  3. Cut squash neck lengthwise into thirds and cut each third into ½-inch thick pieces that are roughly 1-inch-by-2-inches.
  4. In a bowl, toss squash with salt and cinnamon.
  5. Spread out on baking sheet lined with parchment paper, allowing space between each piece.
  6. Roast for 30 minutes or until tender.
  7. Remove from oven and cool. Drizzle with tahini and honey and top with nuts to serve.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 142 calories, 8g total fat, 1g saturated fat, 0mg cholesterol, 72mg sodium, 19g carbohydrate, 3g fiber, 6g sugar, 3g protein, 431mg potassium, 121mg phosphorus

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My Global Table: Afghanistan https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/my-global-table-afghanistan/ Fri, 20 Mar 2020 12:54:05 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=25546 ]]> Majestic mountain ranges and deep valleys, sweet melodious tunes of the Rabab, the heart trembling beat of the dhol and ruby-like gems of pomegranates — this is what comes to mind when I think of Afghanistan. A landlocked country in the heart of Asia known for the Silk Road, The Kite Runner, and, of course, food, Afghanistan’s cuisine fuses flavors that’ll make your taste buds dance. Its cuisine has influences from all over — Persia, the Mediterranean, South Asia and China.

In the 1980s when their country was invaded by the Soviet Union, many Afghans sought refuge in different parts of the world. My parents came to the United States and my siblings and I grew up in New Jersey. Because my parents held their culture so dear, we had a lot of exposure to Afghan values and traditions. For instance, our dining area did not have a table. Foam mattresses decorated with velvet covers, called gorbachai, were placed around the perimeter of the room and used as chairs. A sturkhan, or tablecloth, would be laid out on the floor during mealtimes, with trays of food placed on it. During meals, we would sit cross-legged on the gorbachai around the sturkhan and were encouraged to eat with our hands, specifically, our right hand. Hungry or not, mealtime was family time, so we had to be present.

Culinary Culture and Traditional Foods
I learned all about Afghan food from my Mor (mom) and Agha (dad). When I traveled to Afghanistan more than a decade ago, I was re-exposed to it on a whole different level, seeing the process from farm to table.

In the U.S., my mom would buy albukhara, (dried apricots) from a store. In Afghanistan, fresh apricots (most likely picked from a tree in the backyard) are laid outside in the sun, and in a few days, voila — dried apricots, ready to use in stews and other dishes.

I recall speaking to my uncle about how we celebrate Thanksgiving in the U.S. by cooking a turkey, confidently telling him I could make it. Expecting a packaged turkey like the one we get from the grocery store in the U.S., I was shocked the next day when I saw the live turkey he had procured, gobbling throughout the courtyard. Preparing that turkey was an unforgettable experience.

Afghan cooking wastes as little as possible, whether it’s an animal or fresh produce. Lamb, the staple meat, is grilled, used as jerky or put in a stew or soup. Shorwa, a bone and meat soup, is cooked in a pressure cooker for two to three hours on low heat. The broth is then strained over cut-up pieces of bread and the remaining meat is placed over the broth-bread mixture. Shorwa also can be made from trotters (animal feet), organs and skull meats.

Rice and naan-e-Afghani (bread) are a must in Afghan cuisine. Parboiled rice is soaked overnight, then boiled in salted water, strained, seasoned with cumin, cassia cinnamon, cloves, black cardamom and oil and then finally steamed. The key to the perfect rice is to wrap the lid in a towel and place it on the pot to absorb excess moisture. A famous rice dish is Kabuli Palau: onionand spice-flavored rice topped with julienned carrots, raisins, pistachios and almonds. Bread is practically used as a spoon: fold a small piece, scoop foods and eat them together. Fermented and leavened bread is preferred.

Most dishes incorporate yogurt in one way or another. If it is not part of the dish, you’ll always find a bowl of yogurt served on the side, decorated with chopped cucumbers and dried mint. Yogurt is even preserved into quroot, a boiled yogurt that is drained using a cheesecloth and then rolled into little balls that harden. Quroot is savored as-is or turned into a paste by soaking and then using as a sauce.

Fruits and vegetables play a big role in Afghan culture. Starchy vegetables are usually cooked into stews, which are made in a caramelized onion and tomato base. Non-starchy vegetables such as scallions, radishes, cucumbers, turnips, beets and carrots are generally eaten raw. These vegetables also are pickled into turshi, using a mixture of vinegar and boiled water, then seasoned with garlic, fenugreek and nigella seeds, and salt.

Fruits are an even bigger part of the Afghan diet, eaten throughout the day in many forms. In season, fruits are enjoyed raw. As the season comes to an end, fruits are preserved. Dried fruit, along with green tea and nuts, is a must after a meal.

Family and hospitality are at the essence of Afghan culture and both are catered to through food. Nushi-Jaan Ji Sah (“May it nourish your being”), my parents would say when their food was praised. The guests’ response: Kor moh wadhan (“May your home flourish”).

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Layered Eggplant with Yogurt Sauce https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/layered-eggplant-with-yogurt-sauce/ Fri, 20 Mar 2020 12:53:39 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=25562 ]]> This version of the traditional Afghan dish banjan uses roasted eggplant rather than fried. Cooked eggplant, peppers and tomatoes are layered with creamy yogurt sauce, then garnished with fresh herbs.

SERVINGS: 4
SERVING SIZE: 1¼ cups (310 grams)
PREP TIME: 15 minutes
COOKING TIME: 40 minutes

Ingredients

  • 2 small globe eggplants, cut horizontally into ⅓-inch slices
  • ¾ teaspoon sea salt, divided
  • 1 green bell pepper, cut into ½-inch slices
  • ¼ cup (59 milliliters) olive oil
  • 1 cup plain reduced-fat yogurt
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 3 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped and divided
  • 2 cups fresh tomato, chopped
  • 1½ teaspoons turmeric, divided
  • 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 400°F (204°C). Line baking sheet with parchment paper.
  2. Place eggplant in a colander and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon salt. Set aside 10 minutes.
  3. Use paper towel to pat eggplant dry and brush away excess salt.
  4. Place eggplant and pepper in a large mixing bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and toss.
  5. Arrange eggplant and pepper on baking sheet. Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until tender.
  6. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix yogurt, garlic and 2 tablespoons mint. Store in refrigerator until ready to use.
  7. To a large, deep skillet with lid, add chopped tomatoes, 1 teaspoon turmeric and remaining salt.
  8. Layer cooked eggplant and peppers on top. Add remaining turmeric.
  9. Cover and cook over medium-high heat for 6 to 8 minutes until tomatoes start to soften. Uncover and stir.
  10. Cook uncovered 2 to 4 minutes until eggplant is fully softened and tomatoes have formed a sauce.
  11. To serve, spread all but 2 tablespoons yogurt sauce across the bottom of a large bowl or platter. Layer eggplant-pepper-tomato mixture on top and sprinkle with remaining mint and cilantro. Drizzle with remaining yogurt.

Cooking Note: If fresh tomatoes are unavailable, use a 14.5-ounce can of diced fire-roasted tomatoes.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 233 calories, 16g total fat, 3g saturated fat, 4mg cholesterol, 346mg sodium, 19g carbohydrate, 6g fiber, 12g sugar, 6g protein, 779mg potassium, 154mg phosphorus

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Whole-Wheat Leek and Red Pepper Bolani https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/whole-wheat-leek-and-red-pepper-bolani/ Fri, 20 Mar 2020 12:53:24 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=25557 ]]> A bread pocket stuffed with savory and sweet, spice-infused filling, this twist on the traditional bolani features whole-wheat dough and added red pepper.

SERVINGS: 4
SERVING SIZE: 1 bolani (101 grams)
PREP TIME: 20 minutes, plus 30-minute rest time for dough
COOKING TIME: 12 minutes

Ingredients

  • 1¼ cup whole-wheat flour, divided
  • ½ teaspoon dry active yeast
  • ½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon salt, divided
  • 3 tablespoons (45 milliliters) olive oil, divided
  • 1 teaspoon crushed coriander seed
  • 1 teaspoon cumin
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric
  • ⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • ¾ cup leeks, thinly sliced
  • ½ cup red pepper, minced

Instructions

  1. In a mixing bowl, stir together 1 cup flour, yeast and ½ teaspoon salt.
  2. Add ½ cup water and mix until you form a ball (sprinkle with flour if sticky or water if too dry).
  3. Sprinkle remaining flour onto a clean flat surface, then knead dough 2 minutes until smooth (use more flour to reduce stickiness).
  4. Form dough into ball and allow to rest for 30 minutes.
  5. In a 10-inch skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat.
  6. Add coriander, cumin, turmeric, remaining salt and red pepper flakes and stir. Cook 2 minutes, then stir in leeks and red pepper. Cover with lid. Reduce heat to low and cook 6 minutes.
  7. Transfer to bowl and wipe pan clean with paper towel.
  8. Divide dough into 4 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a ball, then flatten with palm to make a circle.
  9. Lightly flour each side and use a rolling pin to press into 6-inch round disc with ⅛-inch thickness.
  10. Spread ¼ of the leek-pepper mixture onto half of a circle and fold the unfilled half over to form a semicircle. Press dough together with fork tines to seal. Repeat with remaining dough.
  11. In the same skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat until hot. Place 2 bolani in skillet and cook 2 minutes on each side, or until golden brown. Gently poke any air pockets with fork tine.
  12. Place bolani on paper towel and repeat with remaining bolani and oil.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 276 calories, 12g total fat, 2g saturated fat, 0mg cholesterol, 295mg sodium, 38g carbohydrate, 6g fiber, 1g sugar, 7g protein, N/A potassium, N/A phosphorus

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Chicken Dumplings with Chickpea-Tomato Sauce https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/chicken-dumplings-with-chickpea-tomato-sauce/ Fri, 20 Mar 2020 12:53:13 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=25552 ]]> Inspired by the traditional Afghan dish Munthoo or Mantu, this version lowers total fat by reducing the amount of oil and using ground chicken instead of beef. Cilantro is removed in favor of more mint, and using canned chickpeas provides a faster cook time.

SERVINGS: 6
SERVING SIZE: 6 dumplings (126 grams), 2⅔ tablespoons yogurt (40 grams), ⅓ cup chickpea sauce (68 grams)
PREP TIME: 45 minutes
COOKING TIME: 30 minutes

Ingredients
Dumpling

  • 1 tablespoon (13 milliliters) canola oil
  • 1 pound ground chicken
  • 1 yellow onion, diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric
  • 36 wonton wraps

Yogurt Sauce

  • 1 cup plain nonfat Greek yogurt
  • 1 teaspoon dried mint
  • 1 clove garlic, grated
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt

Chickpea-Tomato Sauce

  • 1 tablespoon (13 milliliters) canola oil
  • 1 yellow onion, diced
  • 2 teaspoons turmeric
  • 1 tablespoon coriander
  • 1 tablespoon cumin
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon chili powder
  • 1 8-ounce can no-salt-added tomato sauce
  • 1 15.5-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  • ⅓ cup fresh mint, chopped

Instructions

  1. To make dumplings, heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat.
  2. Add chicken and cook 5 minutes, breaking apart until no longer pink.
  3. Add onion and sauté 3 to 4 minutes until translucent.
  4. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds.
  5. Add pepper, salt and turmeric and cook 30 seconds.
  6. Add 2 tablespoons water and scrape any brown bits. Set aside in bowl to cool.
  7. Wet outer edges of a wonton wrapper. Place 1 tablespoon chicken mixture in the center.
  8. Fold paper over into a semicircle and seal edge with water, pressing firm to close. Repeat with wontons until all filling is used.
  9. Fill a small pot halfway with water and heat to simmer.
  10. Place dumplings in stackable bamboo steamer baskets that fit over pot and cover. Cook 15 minutes and repeat with remaining dumplings.
  11. Meanwhile, make yogurt sauce by mixing yogurt, mint, garlic and salt in a bowl. Set aside.
  12. To make chickpea-tomato sauce, heat oil in small pot over medium-high heat.
  13. Add onion and sauté 5 minutes or until translucent.
  14. Add turmeric, coriander, cumin, salt and chili powder and cook 30 seconds.
  15. Stir in tomato sauce and chickpeas. Bring to boil, then lower heat to simmer, cooking 15 minutes.
  16. To serve, spread 2⅔ tablespoons yogurt sauce evenly on plate. Place 6 dumplings on top, then top with ⅓ cup chickpea-tomato sauce and 1 tablespoon mint. Repeat with remaining servings.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 393 calories, 13g total fat, 2g saturated fat, 71mg cholesterol, 693mg sodium, 46g carbohydrate, 5g fiber, 6g sugar, 25g protein, 750mg potassium, 287mg phosphorus

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My Global Table: Venezuela https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/my-global-table-venezuela/ Mon, 06 Jan 2020 15:36:00 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=24653 ]]> I was born and raised in Caracas, Venezuela. My father was from Margarita Island, located in the northeast, and my mother is from the country’s second-largest city, Maracaibo, at the opposite extreme in western Venezuela.

I was always interested in food and I remember the first day I cooked something: I was 7 years old and in third grade. We had an event for Food and Nutrition Day, which is November 18 in Venezuela. We were supposed to cook vegetables and fruits with our teachers and school personnel, and I was fascinated that I cooked something and was able to interact with food in a way other than simply eating it.

From that moment, I became very close to both my grandmothers’ kitchens, offering help particularly for Sunday family meals and, in December, making the traditional and laborious Christmas dish hallacas.

I learned to cook from my grandmothers; my mom and dad are both successful journalists who liked to eat (but not prepare) food. When I was sent to the United States in the 1980s to improve my English, I brought those interactions with my grandmas and put them to action. I longed for ancestral flavors of my heritage.

Back in Venezuela, summers were spent by the beach on Margarita Island near my paternal grandparents’ house. I remember shopping for food with my grandmother, who carefully chose ingredients and would drive miles away to find the best fresh fish, fruits and vegetables on the island.

In those days, Venezuela was a very different country from what we hear about today. It was prosperous, safe and engaged in modernity with a high taste for gastronomic innovation — which fortunately continues to stand today, even in the middle of the most severe crisis experienced by the country since its independence days.

As I write these lines, Venezuela is immersed in political, social and economic chaos. Food security has impaired the majority of households. People are facing food shortages, lack of access to food due to its elevated cost, and scarcity of gas, electricity or safe water. Venezuelans also face the challenge of cooking with foods that are available or that they can still afford.

Traditional Cuisine and Eating Habits
As with many Latin American cultures, Venezuelan cuisine is linked to corn and beans, which are used in dishes such as arepas (a form of cornbread filled with avocado and chicken or shredded beef; popular for breakfast), cachapas (a type of corn pancakes) and our iconic “flag” dish pabellón criollo, served with white rice, black beans, shredded beef and fried plantains.

The cuisine of the Eastern Region of Venezuela is largely influenced by Spain, France (from Corsica), India (many from Trinidad and Tobago and Guyana) and the Dutch Caribbean. It is full of mixed aromas and spices yet is simple and fresh. Growing up in the Eastern Region, fresh fish was a must — accompanied by ripe tomatoes and avocados and sprinkled with juicy limes full of flavor. You’ll also find fresh blood sausage (the creole version of the French boudin noir), creole chorizos and sweet native chilis that are unique in texture, color and flavors.

At the northwestern part of the country by Zulia State bordering with Colombia, a common food is deep-fried green plantains covered with toppings such as cabbage, shredded carrots, shredded beef or chicken, and a dressing made of a combination of mayonnaise, tomato, garlic and parsley salsa verde (green sauce). In the Andean region, soups are rich and delicious — great for the colder weather in this area. In southern Venezuela, there are big rivers full of fish. Fish rich in fat such as pavón, lau lau and sapoara are used in stews and soups that are uniquely different from soups found in the Eastern Region, including Sancocho de Pescado (typical creole soup) and Corbullón de Mero (fish soup and grouper or other fish court-bouillon, per the French influence).

Ingredients for traditional Venezuelan cooking include precooked corn flour (masarepa, also may be called masa al instante or harina precocida) and ground corn, small sweet chili peppers, limes and the creole version of bouquet garni (fresh cilantro, spearmint, parsley and green onions — called compuesto by my grandmothers and an essential for soups and stews). Venezuelan cocoa, which is among the best in the world, is the base for outstanding desserts, along with coconuts and the many fruits available in the tropical Caribbean climate.

While Christmas scents often include cinnamon or pine in other regions of the world, for Venezuelans, the aroma of holidays is plantain leaves. A distinctive part of Venezuelan Christmas is an elaborate tamal called the hallaca: ground-corn dough filled with meat or poultry and other foods such as raisins and olives, then wrapped in smoked plantain leaves and boiled.

Challenges and Future Perspectives
Traditional Venezuelan dishes lack dark leafy greens and other vegetables, creating an extraordinary opportunity to promote the use of these cheaper sources of micronutrients — especially as food access challenges continue. Feeding people is essential, and Venezuelans are adapting recipes for available foods while trying to satisfy local tastes and preserve ancestral heritage. For example, arepas traditionally made with corn flour (which is increasingly scarce) are becoming multicolored as they are made from pumpkins, carrots, spinach or yucca.

The flavors of our traditional cuisine began with the first people who arrived at the Venezuelan territory. Some tastes may have changed over the years, but those tied to our identity as a culture and as a nation so far have sustained. What becomes of traditional Venezuelan dishes in years to come remains to be seen.

References

Popic M. Comer en Venezuela Del Cazavi a la Espuma de Yuca. 1rst Ed. Miro Popic Editor; 2013:15.

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Coconut-Topped Chocolate Cake https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/coconut-topped-chocolate-cake/ Mon, 06 Jan 2020 15:07:00 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=24595 ]]> Inspired by the popular Venezuelan dessert negro en camisa, this modified version replaces butter, sugar and English cream with avocado, dried plums and coconut, respectively.

SERVINGS: 12
SERVING SIZE: 3-by-3-inch square piece plus 1 teaspoon shredded coconut (99 grams)
PREP TIME: 25 minutes
COOKING TIME: 45 minutes

Ingredients

  • 2 peeled and pitted avocados
  • 1⅓ cup dried plums
  • ½ cup (125 milliliters) 1% milk
  • 2½ cups 70% dark chocolate chips
  • 6 eggs, yolks and whites separated
  • ¾ cup whole-wheat flour
  • 2 tablespoons shredded unsweetened coconut

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F (177°C).
  2. In a blender, puree avocado with 2 tablespoons water. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
  3. Separately, puree dried plums with ½ cup water and set aside.
  4. In a 4-quart stockpot or double boiler, heat 1 cup water over high heat.
  5. Place a glass or stainless-steel bowl inside the stockpot and add milk to the bowl.
  6. Once water starts to simmer, reduce heat to low and add chocolate chips to the milk.
  7. Stir frequently with a heat-proof rubber spatula until chocolate becomes silky smooth.
  8. Once chocolate is melted, stir in avocado and plum purees.
  9. Add egg yolks to the chocolate mixture and stir, then transfer mixture to a large mixing bowl.
  10. Stir flour into the mixture, then gently whip and fold in egg whites.
  11. Transfer the mixture into a greased 11-by-7-inch baking dish and bake for 45 minutes, or until a toothpick in the center comes out clean.
  12. To serve, cut into 3-by-3-inch squares and sprinkle with shredded coconut.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 296 calories, 13g total fat, 6g saturated fat, 94mg cholesterol, 45mg sodium, 45g carbohydrate, 7g fiber, 29g sugar, 7g protein, N/A potassium, N/A phosphorus

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Sauteed Fish with Tomato-Pepper Sauce https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/sauteed-fish-with-tomato-pepper-sauce/ Mon, 06 Jan 2020 15:05:08 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=24591 ]]> A modified version of the traditional Venezuelan corbullón de mero, this adaptation uses any firm white fish and ingredients that are easy to find in the grocery store.

SERVINGS: 4
SERVING SIZE: 4 ounces fish with sauce, 2 olives and ½ tablespoon cilantro (210 grams)
PREP TIME: 10 minutes
COOKING TIME: 25 minutes

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons (60 milliliters) canola oil, divided
  • 1 cup chopped tomato
  • 1½ cups chopped red bell pepper
  • 3 tablespoons chopped red cherry peppers
  • 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
  • ¼ teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1 teaspoon creole seasoning
  • 2 tablespoons (30 milliliters) dry red wine, such as cabernet sauvignon
  • 16 ounces firm white fish, cut into 4 pieces (4 ounces each)
  • ¼ teaspoon black pepper
  • ½ cup finely chopped yellow onion
  • 8 small pimento stuffed olives, sliced
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Instructions

  1. Heat a large skillet over medium heat for 30 seconds, then add 2 tablespoons canola oil.
  2. Add tomato, bell pepper, cherry peppers and garlic.
  3. Sauté for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep garlic from sticking.
  4. Transfer the tomato-pepper mixture to a food processor or blender.
  5. Add thyme, creole seasoning and red wine, then blend until smooth. Set aside.
  6. Use a paper towel to pat fish dry, then sprinkle each piece with equal amounts of black pepper.
  7. In the same skillet used to cook tomato-pepper mixture, add the remaining 2 tablespoons canola oil and heat over medium heat for 30 seconds.
  8. Add onion, then nestle fish fillets in onions.
  9. Sauté for 5 minutes without moving fish.
  10. Pour tomato-pepper mixture into the skillet, surrounding but not covering the top of the fish with the sauce.
  11. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes. Fish should reach an internal temperature of 145°F (63°C) and easily flake with a fork.
  12. To serve, remove fish with a spatula and spoon sauce around the serving dish. Garnish with olives and cilantro.

Cooking note: Use any firm white fish, such as grouper, tilapia, cod or snapper.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 230 calories, 14g total fat, 1g saturated fat, 43mg cholesterol, 594mg sodium, 7g carbohydrate, 2g fiber, 2g sugar, 19g protein, N/A potassium, N/A phosphorous

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Kale, Onion and Black Bean Arepas https://foodandnutrition.org/from-the-magazine/kale-onion-and-black-bean-arepas/ Mon, 06 Jan 2020 15:00:31 +0000 https://foodandnutrition.org/?p=24589 ]]> A favorite in Venezuela, an arepa is gluten-free corn bread that is crunchy on the outside and tender on the inside. This vegetarian version is filled with beans and vegetables.

SERVINGS: 8
SERVING SIZE: 1 arepa with ⅓ cup filling (71 grams)
PREP TIME: 10 minutes
COOKING TIME: 25 minutes

Ingredients

  • 2 cups pre-cooked white cornmeal flour
  • 3 tablespoons (37 milliliters) vegetable oil, divided
  • ¼ cup diced onions
  • 1 cup drained canned black beans
  • 3 cups chopped kale, stems removed
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • ½ teaspoon black pepper
  • ⅓ cup crumbled feta or gorgonzola cheese

Instructions

  1. Pour flour into a medium bowl. Make a well in the center and add 2½ cups warm water.
  2. Using a wooden spoon, gradually stir until no dry lumps remain. Let rest 5 minutes.
  3. Knead dough a few times in bowl, then divide into 8 pieces.
  4. On a clean surface, roll each piece into a ball, then gently flatten to about ½-inch thick.
  5. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat.
  6. Add 4 pieces of dough, cover and cook until golden brown, about 6 to 8 minutes.
  7. Uncover, flip and cook uncovered 6 to 8 minutes, until other side is golden brown.
  8. Transfer arepas to a wire rack.
  9. Repeat with 1 tablespoon oil and remaining dough.
  10. Cut cooked arepas in half.
  11. To make the filling, heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat.
  12. Add onions and cook about 3 minutes or until translucent.
  13. Add black beans and kale and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring frequently, until kale is tender.
  14. Season with garlic powder and black pepper and toss to ensure seasonings are evenly distributed.
  15. Stuff each arepa with ⅓ cup filling and top with 1 teaspoon cheese.

NUTRITION PER SERVING: 204 calories, 6g total fat, 1g saturated fat, 2mg cholesterol, 539mg sodium, 32g carbohydrate, 4g fiber, 1g sugar, 5g protein, 196mg potassium, 279mg phosphorus

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